By Christelle Saint-Julien
Despite the succession of disruptions that took place within the fashion industry recently, a new breed of young designers are casually reshaping the industry, quietly imposing their influences amongst bigger players. The recent introduction of several prestigious fashion prizes may favour a push to exposure and fame, or earn a fashion week entrance, while the internet has allowed legions of fans to join in. However, only true talent allows vision and sensibility to be transmitted to consumers in a new kind of dialogue that focuses on the garment more than the brand, leaving us the wide possibility of expressing our individuality, habits, style and taste. Considering these new standards, here is a spotlight on the latest generation taking fashion by storm.
Before he was named creative director to Balenciaga succeeding Alexander Wang, Demna Gvasalia – who cut his teeth at Margiela and Louis Vuitton – rose to prominence as the leader of Vêtements, the latest fashion mania. Comprised of five designers including Demna’s brother Guram, the collective characterize their design approach through the deconstruction of garments with an urban mindset, elevating the prosaic in a streetstyle aesthetic. The unseasoned attitude of the brand turns each piece into a coveted object, often recognizable in its oversized cut, patched construction, or familiarly reinterpreted logos.
Grace Wales Bonner
As the recipient of many esteemed prizes, this London-based 25 year-old reached global critical acclaim as she unveiled her debut menswear collection this year. The promising designer generated an unprecedented interest with her exploration of masculinity through an ethnographic eye. Her work demonstrates an incredible richness and heritage through detailed statements of suede, velvet, and denim in a flamboyant aesthetic that is rich in historical and social commentary. Wales Bonner will soon be translating her expansive vision to a womenswear line, in which we hope she continues to cast a majority of ethnically diverse models.
The eponymous brand led by Gosha Rubchinskiy has conjured millions of adherents with its post-soviet aesthetic. The Russian designer’s label unveils an atypical vision tending toward a streetwear approach and embracing a definite retro sportswear ideal. T-shirts, crewnecks and socks, adorned with prints, flags and cyrillic inscriptions form the basis of Rubchinskiy’s portfolio and express an unorthodoxy that embraces youth culture and urban influences.
Having also received a handful of fashion awards, the designer duo of Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis advocate ethical clothing designed in their signature and original vibrant prints. Based in New York City, their label and brainchild sources fabric from countries all around the world such as Kenya, Peru, and India in order to design bright and modern pieces that are vibrant and bold in their fit, colours, and textures.
Kym Ellery is a Central St. Martins graduate who made a career change from being the former fashion editor of Australian fashion magazine Russh to design her own self-styled line. Ellery’s sensibility resides in architectural pieces and works with volume. The result is a streamlined modern gypsy feel with feminine appeal that includes a signature flared silhouette and a restricted palette exuding a timelessness appeal.
Deemed as this year’s big up-and-comers and heavily influenced by an artistic aesthetic, Eckhaus Latta make a case for their sculptural, thrift-like assortments and baring garments assembled in an oblique, gender-bending vision. The dynamic power duo composed of Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta, reinforces their unique vision through the absence of common-threads in their collection, focusing instead on textiles and textures with an avant-garde, almost dorky aesthetic.