Fall/Winter 2017/18 menswear collection “Occupying Space”
The name of this collection evokes the concept of taking the spaces of others and transforming them into something new. This pattern has been repeating itself since the ancient times and is most clearly visible during wartime periods. From a small personal area to entire cities and landscapes taken by the aggressor, such spaces undergo various transformations, whereby old materials are reused and combined with new ones to create an area in favor of those who are more powerful at the time. The repressor shows its power by signing the occupied space (usage of symbols during fascism and other similar movements).
This idea has been taken as a starting point and metaphorically translated into the language of textile, whereby the fabric itself is being inhabited (printed over) by the “new” pattern. Many of the textiles used for this collection initially have woven patterns, which are then partially screen-printed over or distressed, or suffer various other changes on their surface. The print is either the fabric’s own, original graphic template or the template of another popular weaving pattern (herringbone, houndstooth, pinstripe…). The method of occupation is aggressive; it changes not only the visible pattern, but also the physical structure of fabric. Another type of modification consists in spilling silicone over the fabric or coating it with paint.
Each change results in different characteristics and behavior of the newly designed fabric. After the garment is cut, the graphically “occupied” area is signed with a visually aggressive symbol that communicates the technology used for the procedure. Expanding the yarn, covering the surface, heating the textile, gluing the fabric – these are some of the signatures and their visuals (EX-TS, 110 NEU, GD 270…). The form and appearance of the garments are derived from military uniforms and their more popular everyday versions such as trench coats, overalls, suits, and bomber jackets.