Text by Brian James
The phrase hidden gem is one that can be over-used however Hamburg, Germany’s second largest city is that very thing. Overshadowed by its neighbour Berlin and a plethora of already established and emerging European destinations, this Hanseatic city exudes elegance. It has a cultural cachet that manifests itself in a cityscape which melds parks , greenery and waterways with beautiful buildings, premium shopping and some of the coolest neighbourhoods on the continent. Central to Hamburg’s unique identity and charm is the fact that two expansive lakes, the Binnenalster (Inner Alster) and AuBenalster (Outer Alster), lie at the heart of the city.
These cool credentials are evidenced by the fact that Jil Sander and Karl Lagerfeld both had homes on the banks of the AuBenalster, while the Blankenese neighbourhood on the banks of the river Elbe is a must-visit destination. With its urban Elbstrand beach and gorgeous white cottages dotting the neighbourhood’s hillsides, it’s often likened to the Amalfi coast and is within easy reach from the city centre.
Eppendorf, described as the “little Notting Hill” is another neighbourhood that can’t be missed boasting an array of designer stores, independent boutiques and a twice weekly market called Isemarkt where generations of locals have gravitated to purchase fresh regional produce and flowers. The city centre and Neuer Wall are home to prestigious flagship retailers such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Hermes, while Karolinenviertel (the Karolinen Quarter) is the place to visit for vintage shopping and record shops.
If Hamburg is a hidden gem, the 5-star Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten is the jewel in its accommodation crown. Situated on the bank of the Binnenalster (Inner Alster) entering the Hotel one is immediately drawn to its sophisticated serenity and quiet luxury. That passage from lakeside to Hotel is made even more special by the colours and hues that have been used in the lobby areas’ soft furnishings which in the Summer sunshine reflect the shades and tones of the lakes surface.
Having welcomed 20th century icons such as Maria Callas and Ralph Lauren who both designed suites named after them, the Vier Jahreszeiten continues to attract iconic guests with Kim Kardashian, Taylor Swift and Rita Ora all having stayed there recently.
Transported up to your room in a wood panelled lift that speaks to the Hotels 128 year history the tranquil tempo of the reception areas extends to richly carpeted hallways that seem more private space than public area. The rooms are the perfect amalgam of the traditional and modern with 21st century tech sharing space with sumptuous furnishings and opulent chandeliers. The bathrooms are spacious, sensitively lit, boast a double vanity unit and all the products you need for your stay. Many rooms face directly onto the Binnenalster and come with a balcony where you can view the iconic Alster Fountain as it becomes illuminated, throwing its trademark water jet up into the evening sky.
When it comes time to leave your room and explore all that the Vier Jahreszeiten has to offer, the 5th floor Spa is the perfect location to unwind and be pampered by the attentive and highly skilled beauty therapists. Utilising the most innovative skincare techniques and analysis the Spa specialises in a ground-breaking non-invasive skin rejuvenation treatment and JetPeel technology. The expert therapists also offer a range of other beauty services that includes manicures, pedicures, massages and physiotherapy across its calm and calming beautifully appointed treatment suites.
Fitness and relaxation are also key components in the Spa experience which boasts a steam room, sauna and changing areas stocked with essential premium products. The adjacent fitness area, where personal training is available on request, features state of the art gym equipment and flows into a loft style relaxation area, Decorated in Nordic style with a central wood burner and day beds that come with comforting hygge style blankets it’s the perfect place to snuggle with a herbal tea or rejuvenating ginger shot.
When it comes to enjoying the Vier Jahreszeiten myriad culinary options there is something to suit everyone. Widely regarded as the most important meal of the day, breakfast in the Hotel’s Cafe Condi marries an impressive buffet service with cooked-to-order hot food options. The eggs and pancakes selections are particularly more-ish and sitting on Cafe Condi’s mezzanine level overlooking the Binnenalster is the perfect way to start your Hamburg day.
That mezzanine also looks onto Deck 4 , the Vier Jahreszeiten’s outdoor summer terrace that sits directly on the lakeside and offers a wide selection of drinks and small plates to the accompaniment of a perfectly curated soundtrack and breathtaking views. Imagine a beach club transposed to the city centre and that’s Deck 4. Further outdoor space is provided by the Hotel’s recently reopened rooftop Terrace which affords spectacular views over the Inner and Outer Alster as well as the cityscape. A perfect way to start to your evening, enjoying the Hanseatic sunset and the wide array of beverages and dishes that are on offer
The ground floor Wohnhalle which is lovingly described as Hamburg’s living room transports us back to the Hotel’s 19th century origins with wood-panelling and rich furnishings. Renowned for its British style afternoon teas and signature sandwiches, the Wohnhalle is an oasis of civilised elegance in which to savour these delights.
For evening the Vier Jahreszeiten offers three distinct and equally impressive fine dining options that cater to every palette. Restaurant Haerlin boasts three Michelin stars and multi-award winning Chef Christoph Ruffer’s mastery of seasonal ingredients and ability to combine the most flavoursome textures and aromas creates the most exceptional cuisine. Served in a room whose grandeur is enhanced by the Hotel’s trademark fabulous floristry, it’s a special experience.
The second Vier Jahreszeiten restaurant, The Grill also offers an elevated dining experience. With a traditional yet unstuffy atmosphere its calming, sophisticated ambience has made it the go-to destination for Hotel guests and Hamburgers alike. I can’t recommend the succulent steaks and delicious desserts highly enough and the discreet yet highly attentive wait staff add to what is a never to be forgotten gourmet experience.
If Restaurant Haerlin and The Grill are imbued with traditional sophistication, Japanese/Peruvian fusion restaurant Nikkei Nine offers a coolly cosmopolitan alternative. A low-lit, exceptionally stylish space that’s both intimate and inviting, the atmosphere is contemporary and casual. That interiors excellence extends to the gorgeous rest-rooms which feature contemporary artwork. As to the food, the fusion of flavours and textures is unsurpassed. I had the tasting menu and can’t speak highly enough of the Sushi dishes and a duck main course that was probably the best I’ve eaten. If cocktails are your thing, the restaurant’s signature cocktail “Yuzo Sancho” has to be sipped to be believed.
Once you’ve dined in your restaurant of choice , the Hotels Jahreszeiten Bar, an atmospheric snug nestled off the main foyer is the perfect spot for an end of evening nightcap before returning to your room where you’ll find that the housekeeping staff have prepared it with their exceptional turn down service. You may find that the folded down page of your bedside novel now contains a bookmark or that the glasses case left on your room’s desk is now accompanied by a cleaning cloth. It’s these small touches which take the Vier Jahreszeiten’s gold-standard service to that next level.
With its quiet luxury, Hanseatic heritage and relaxed friendly ambience, staying at the Fairmont Vier Jahreszeiten Hotel is a magical experience. If you are looking to explore all that Germany’s second city has to offer, the Vier Jahreszeiten is the perfect location to do that from.
