by Brian James
Last season, the cross-continental connection between East and West, between Chinese designers and London Fashion Week, was exemplified through “Hu Bing Selects,” an initiative implemented by the Chinese polymath. Global multi-hyphenate and official London Fashion Week ambassador Bing brought Chinese brand “Consistence” to LFW last September, where they impressed with their stunning S/S 25 collection.
That cultural conduit continued this season under the auspices of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), who brought a quartet of both established and emerging Chinese designers to showcase their A/W 25 collections at LFW. The cohort selected by HKTDC included esteemed designer Angus Tsui, whose eponymous brand celebrated its tenth anniversary last year, and Nathan Moy, who only founded his label Z I D I last year.
Showing in the creative cauldron of East London’s Shoreditch neighbourhood, the quartet also featured designer Bettie Jiang, whose “Bettie Haute Couture” label blends British tailoring with Bauhaus-inspired minimalism, and Rickyy Wong, a designer whose fashion formation includes dual Master’s degrees acquired in Paris and Tokyo.
Angus Tsui opened the show and set the standard with a collection that transfixed us with its dramatic dimensions and futuristic feeling. When asked what inspired it, he told Flanelle: “It’s called GIGER: Perfect Organism, which pays tribute to the legendary Swiss surrealist HR Giger, who created the original xenomorph creature in the Alien movie, which was made in 1979. Our brand’s aesthetics are strongly influenced by Giger’s works, and we are trying to apply the exoskeleton details and design elements to our collection.”
Explaining what motivated him to return to London as part of the HKTDC initiative, Angus said: “It’s been a long time since we first showcased at London Fashion Week in 2020, right before the pandemic. We have been refining and improving our vision and designs throughout the journey, and we are so thrilled to be part of the showcase, as the HKTDC team has always been so supportive of promoting Hong Kong designs in a global fashion scene.”
A designer who places environmental empathy at the core of all he does, Angus explained the ethical practices used to make GIGER: “Every design piece is constructed with 30 to 40 patterns in order to create an otherworldly aesthetic while incorporating bold elements like giant claws and sculptural details. Apart from vegan leather and sustainable denim, we have also collaborated with Novetex and their The Billie Upcycling System to create upcycled knitwear designs. The system is a waterless solution that transforms textile knitwear waste into new designs by deconstructing discarded knitwear into fibers and reconstructing them into yarns again.”
That intentionality goes beyond his own garment creation. Expanding on the theme of sustainability, Angus told Flanelle: “Things don’t have to be huge or enormous; we only have to address the problems around our industry and community so that we can propose and collaborate with better ideas to solve them. In our recent collaboration with DHL, we provided opportunities for retired uniforms to be utilized and repurposed. Uniform waste has always been a huge concern in the textile sector, as they cannot be donated due to security reasons.” It’s not only corporate uniform conundrums the designer is solving; “ANCares,” his educational platform, stages exhibitions and seminars on the subject of sustainability.
Celebrating their tenth anniversary last year, Angus Tsui’s longevity in an often transitory industry is a testament to a brand DNA that marries exciting and exceptional design with ethical values.
Following him, Bettie Haute Couture’s Bauhaus Reverie collection was a sleek, chic range of zero-waste pieces. Describing that zero-waste ethos as central to the brand identity, the designer told Flanelle: “We meticulously design each piece to ensure that every scrap of fabric is utilized, minimizing waste throughout the production process. Our bespoke approach allows us to create personalized garments that cater to individual clients’ needs, fostering a deeper connection between the wearer and the piece and promoting a slower, more thoughtful fashion cycle.”
Aligned with this, a melding of East meets West reveals itself in an aesthetic that Bettie described thus: “From Western culture, I draw inspiration from contemporary fashion trends, tailoring techniques, and a focus on innovation and sustainability. Conversely, my Eastern heritage adds rich textures, intricate patterns, and a deep appreciation for traditional artistry. By blending these influences, I aim to create a brand identity that resonates with diverse audiences while celebrating the beauty of both cultures. Each garment tells a story, reflecting the elegance of Eastern aesthetics while embracing the boldness of Western fashion.”
Having studied at UAL and worked at Alexander McQueen in the role of textile print designer, we asked what it meant to her to be showing at LFW. “Studying at UAL has deeply influenced my design approach. Most of my creations reflect a distinct British touch, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design. My time at McQueen taught me the importance of innovation and craftsmanship, and I also discovered my potential for designing print patterns. Being part of a team that embraced bold concepts helped me understand the significance of storytelling.”
The third of the quartet to take to the runway was Rickyy Wong, whose Odyssey collection thrilled the eye with its synthesis of consummate craftsmanship and casual wearability. He told us showing at LFW was an exhilarating and profoundly humbling experience: “The opportunity to showcase my collection alongside other talented designers on such a prestigious global stage filled me with an overwhelming sense of pride and gratitude—one that’s validated the countless hours of dedication and creativity poured into my work. The exposure and connections made during this event have been invaluable, opening doors I once only dreamed of.”
Having studied at both Bunka Gakuen University in Tokyo and ENSAD in Paris, we wanted to know how his dual degrees and that transcontinental fashion education have informed his vision and values. Ricky said: “The experience in Tokyo honed my skills in precision, innovative textiles, and the art of balancing minimalism with avant-garde elements. My time in Paris exposed me to the rich heritage of haute couture, bold silhouettes, and the power of storytelling through fashion.”
Those values are underpinned by an environmental empathy that saw him use fish skin leather in his MA collection. We asked how that ethical ethos continues to influence his work. “Fish skin leather is an innovative and sustainable alternative to exotic hides. As both the brand and demand have grown, we’ve continued to innovate in our material choices, focusing on textiles that are more cost-effective and comfortable for the wearer. We’re constantly researching and experimenting with alternative textiles. We’ve been exploring fabrics made from recycled plastics, plant-based leathers, and regenerated fibers.”
Having now shown in Paris and London, Flanelle asked what’s next for the designer. He told Flanelle: “The LFW platform has given me an incredible opportunity to expand my brand’s profile. I’m looking forward to launching a new fashion social campaign that aims to engage a wider audience and promote sustainable practices in the industry. Additionally, I’m planning to expand my studio in Hong Kong.”
The final designer to grace the HKTDC runway was Nathan Moy, whose brand Z I D I launched last year and whose collection Flux provided a fabulous finale. A collection that explored technology, time, and transformation, it thrilled our eyes with its asymmetric silhouettes, futuristic aesthetic, and vivid color palette.
Nathan told Flanelle: “It reflects the transient nature of our experiences and emotions, capturing the essence of change in both material and form. Each piece is designed to evoke a sense of movement, encouraging wearers to embrace their own evolution while navigating the complexities of modern life.”
A graduate from the ideas incubator Central Saint Martins (CSM), we wanted to know how that experience and living in London have shaped his creative identity. “The city, as well as my university’s eclecticism, encourages experimentation and the blending of influences, allowing me to explore various narratives within my work. Being submerged in CSM’s vibrant community of artists and designers fosters a spirit of collaboration and innovation, inspiring me to continuously challenge my own perspectives and push the envelope of what fashion can be.”
In addition to crafting limited collections that transcend seasonal schedules, the designer told us that sustainability is woven into every facet of Z I D I, from sourcing ethically produced materials to championing fair labor practices. “We prioritize transparency in our supply chain and actively seek partnerships with artisans who share our commitment to craftsmanship and environmental stewardship. We embrace circularity by designing pieces that can be repurposed or upcycled, like our windbreaker pieces that are meticulously constructed with zero waste.”
Nathan told Flanelle that being part of the HKTDC LFW roster so soon after the brand’s inception was an exhilarating and humbling experience that had validated his creative vision. Regarding what happens next for Z I D I, he said: “Our next steps involve expanding our collaborative initiatives, especially in footwear, while delving deeper into more menswear and knitwear, continuing to challenge the conventions of fashion.”
Appealing to a galaxy of communities, this collective entranced all of us who attended the show with their collective appetite for innovative design imbued with a sustainable sensibility. While they are all at different stages in their careers and design development, each has found a distinctive fashion language of their own, fusing a cross-pollination of Eastern and Western influences to make clothes with a mastery that goes beyond what simply pleases the eye. We look forward to seeing what each brings us next.
Images by: Val Stupia, Gala Netylko, Ellis & Eia Hopkinson
