by Leigh Maynard
Ingrid Bergman and Italian actress Anna Magnani represent the opposing sides of vintage cinema – Scandinavian poise, fiery Italian passion, and the leads in a scandal that shook the screen. Rewind to 1949, the golden age of Hollywood. Audience darling Bergman was entwined in a tumultuous love affair with director Roberto Rossellini, who, still in a relationship with Magnini, replaced her with lover Berman as the lead in Stromboli. The explosive ménage a trois led the scorned Magnani to flee the set and create her next movie, aptly entitled Volcano, but not before throwing a plate of pasta over Rosellini.
Taking inspiration from this off-screen tale of passion and rivalry, designer Huishan Zhang pays homage to the dramatic convergence of Italian sensuality and Scandi composure for his AW24 collection. The contrasting aesthetic, silhouettes and palette demonstrate this opposition, where black, charcoal, brown, white, and muted metallics meet vibrant, jewel-encrusted gowns in emerald greens and magenta.
The designer took iconic elements from the wardrobes of these cinematic rivals, looking to Bergman’s signature white shirts and translating them into crisp poplin pieces that reflect her glacial grace. Magniani’s fur coat is recreated in a faux version with leather belting, bringing further sensuality to the silhouette.
The sharp suiting and sophisticated glamour demonstrate Zhang’s versatility underpinned by his masterful tailoring. Japanese wool suits work for sophisticated daywear, while organza dresses with jewel embellishments and tulle panelling perfectly meld vintage and contemporary—details like the hand-pleated tulle dresses structured with crinoline exhibit Zhang’s dedication to his craft. The former NewGen designer has continued to develop his deft approach to design, and like the cinematic stars that inspire him, he is a master of sensuality and precision who’s artistry is set to endure.
