Written by Morgan Leet
The age-old saying of ‘feeling comfortable in your own skin’ haunted me for years. It makes it sound easy, like a choice you can just make one day to feel beautiful. And when you have acne, it feels nearly impossible to feel comfortable, let alone beautiful. In some ways, it’s the most exposing feeling you can have. Your skin is the first thing people see, and as much as makeup can provide coverage, when you have acne it feels like there is nothing to hide behind.
I started having acne when I was around 12 years old. Every day I would hope to wake up with clear skin, so that I didn’t feel like I had to hide. I would try endless products which promised an overnight solution, preying on my deepest wish. But every day for years, I would wake up, feel my face, and have to begin the daily process of trying to accept my skin. And every day, I wouldn’t be able to. I would cover my face with my hands, never go makeup-free, and live in constant paranoia that others were judging my skin.
Now, at 23 years old, I have control over my skin. The overnight cures, acne-tip YouTube videos, and numerous diets never did work. The thing with acne is that it’s really different for everyone. I tried to follow these blanket rules and solutions, but really what helped my skin first and foremost was getting to that place of acceptance.
Even now, when I can go outside makeup-free without fear, I have to accept that I have acne-prone skin. I know I’ll get the occasional breakout, I’ll never have the porcelain skin as I see in ads, and I’m going to be following my 5-step skin regime every night for the foreseeable future. The difference now though, is that I’m not battling my skin. I hated my skin before, so I was in an endlessly exhausting fight with it. I was able to accept it when I realized that my skin was a part of me and that I had to listen to it. I took note of when I broke out and what my skin was trying to tell me about what I was doing, eating, and using.
I worked with it instead of against it.
An Expert Opinion
My skincare regime, which I’ve outlined below, didn’t come fast or easily. Being on the other side of it, I want to help others find what works for them. So, I turned to dermatologist Jennifer Brodeur to learn more about what acne actually is, what causes it, and her tips for getting it under control.
Jennifer Brodeur founded JB Skin Sävvi and is a skin strategist with over 20 years of experience in the aesthetics beauty industry. She reaches audiences and educates through her book, skincare products, and masterclasses.
What actually is acne?
Jennifer Brodeur: This is such an excellent question. We tend to lump acne in with all skin imperfections and oftentimes we misconstrue what it really is. Acne Vulgaris (or acne) is a skin disease. It usually occurs during adolescence due to an increase of testosterone. For most, it diminishes over time. There are various forms of acne and they are all caused by changes in the pilosebaceous units – skin structures consisting of a hair follicle and its associated sebaceous gland. In its true form the best first line of defense is consulting a dermatologist. It’s an important first step as all acne grades require different treatment methods.
Here are some of the forms:
- Whiteheads (comedones) develop when hair follicles become clogged with sebum, or oil and dead skin.
- Blackheads are also considered to be comedones, or hair follicles that are clogged with sebum and dead skin. However, unlike white heads they are open.
- Papules small red tender bumps.
- Pustules which are papules with a thick yellowish or greenish opaque liquidproduced by infected tissue.
- Grades of acne are usually done from I-IV depending on severity. Grade I is usually what is commonly seen in early adolescence.
What do you think is the biggest misconception about acne?
Jennifer Brodeur: The one misconception I hear the most is that it only affects teenagers. Some shockingly will experience acne well into their 40’s, or in fact, it can develop in adulthood (even if as a teen your skin was flawless). That acne can only be produced by oily skin; however, it can also be caused by using inappropriate products. When the natural skin lipid is out of balance it can send the sebaceous glands into overdrive, which can result in acne.
From your experience, what is the most common cause of acne?
Jennifer Brodeur: In my experience, I would have to say 90% of my clients were women dealing with hormones. For example, before menstruation, ovulation, or after pregnancy. Comedogenic substances were the second biggest culprit. And genetic disposition, environmental influences and mental health can also play an important part.
What are your top three tips for those struggling with acne?
Jennifer Brodeur: One: Less is always more. The top priority is to ensure the skin is properly cleansed. Two: Double check your ingredients, makeup and sunscreen may be causing the issue. Three: Ensure that everything that touches your face is clean: Pillowcase, hat, mask.
My Regime
Speaking with Jennifer got me thinking about my own skincare routine, and what it is now compared to what it once was. There is so much information out there, that I didn’t know the science behind my skin until hearing what a dermatologist had to say. One day I listened to a podcast, with a dermatologist as the guest. She explained what retinol was, why people with oily skin still needed moisturizer, and how to tackle scarring with serums. Between all of the commercials and advertising that I have been inundated with my whole life, I had never actually thought about the science of acne and what was best for mine.
So I researched, and I found The Ordinary. The Ordinary is a buffet-style brand, where you can pick the different base products and layer them to create the ideal regimen for yourself. I mixed-and-matched and stuck with it, and soon enough I found what worked for me. I let go of the idea that I had to use what other people used, and chose to actually listen to my own skin.
Evening
I love to wash my face with a gentle foaming cleanser, and really scrub to get all the day away. Right now I’m using Burts Bees, because I love the more natural-based ingredients. Then I follow it up with The Ordinary’s Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution. Next, I pull out my jade roller for my serums. I don’t notice a huge difference with that, but the extra step makes me feel like I’m putting in more self-care effort, and it makes it more fun! The serums I use are Retinol 1%, Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% 4.5, and Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5. It’s been the perfect combination for my skin, but I know many others find Retinol too harsh for daily use.
Morning
In the mornings I’ll wash my face again, and use the Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% 4.5 and Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 again too. Hyaluronic Acid has been a moisturizing lifesaver, even through the winter months. Then I also use the Ascorbic Acid 8% in the morning, which has made my skin noticeably more even.
Once a week I like to throw in a mud mask to really clear out my skin and make it feel renewed. Right now I am rotating between Glam Glow’s Supermud Mask which is like magic, and Antipodes Halo Skin-Brightening Facial Mud Mask which is soothing and all-natural.