An alumnus of De Montfort University, one of the U.K’s most impressive educational fashion incubators, Olivia Black first appeared on our radar with her 2022 Graduate Fashion Week collection. Since then , Olivia has continued her evolution as a designer who is acutely aware of the toxicity of over-production and societal stereotypes, values that are reflected in collections imbued with an environmental empathy and ethical intentionality.
Olivia’s latest collection “Serendipity” which in keeping with her vision and values is seasonless, showed during London Fashion Week in February. A love letter to family and community, it comprised an array of exquisite pieces that were defined by an effortless fluidity and underpinned by a gender fluid sensibility. Olivia’s commitment to sustainable practices was evidenced throughout with the use of natural fibres and consciously curated deadstock fabrics to create the pieces we viewed at her runway show.
A homage to the people and places that have shaped her life , these influences were further evinced through the presence of the brands signature safety-pin motif which featured across many of the garments. A tribute to her seamstress Nana who provided much of the inspiration for her fashion journey, it spoke to the care and craft we saw in the precision tailoring and dedication to detail in every piece.
A few weeks after the London Fashion Week and Fashion Month dust had settled, Flanelle spoke to Olivia about this latest collection, the influences and inspirations that have shaped her practice and her plans for the future.
by Brian James
Congratulations on your collection Serendipity which showed during London Fashion Week. What inspired this collection and what message did you want to convey to us through that title?
Serendipity is about those unexpected moments when things come together in a way that feels meaningful and beautiful. The collection explores the idea of chance encounters and how different influences can connect to create something new. It reflects a sense of discovery and the magic in the unplanned. Through textures and silhouettes, I wanted to capture that feeling of something special emerging from the ordinary.
How do these inspirations manifest themselves in the pieces we saw on the runway?
You can see the inspiration in the contrasts and textures. The collection balances structure with softness. There are sharp lines next to flowing shapes. Some pieces draw attention, while others reveal themselves through movement. The black and white work together for this well. Each piece feels as though it has a story behind it, more than just fabric but something with a life of its own. For my debut I couldn’t think of a better colour pallet than black and white. For me, it felt like the perfect way to start with a blank canvas.
Sustainability is core to the brand identity. Can you talk us through the environmentally conscious materials and practices you followed when making Serendipity?
Sustainability is central to every choice I make. The fabrics come from deadstock suppliers who provide full transparency of where it all comes from. All garments are produced locally in London to maintain quality and support makers who share our values. I work with small production runs to ensure the pieces last and are not disposable. It is important that the collection reflects care, responsibility, and respect for the environment.
It is a seasonless collection whereas many designers produce two seasonal collections plus capsules each year. How do you balance being a sustainable brand with being a financially sustainable business?
The seasonless approach gives the collection space to breathe and allows pieces to find their owners over time. As a self-funded emerging designer, it also allows me more time and space for developing the collections, to make sure everything is truly done with intention. This also helps me to reach sales goals, to continue funding the brand. It is not about rapid growth but steady, intentional development so the brand can last.
Gender fluidity is also key to the Olivia Black identity and we are interested to know how you approach designing pieces for the genderless form?
I start by removing labels. I focus on how a garment feels and moves rather than on categories. The designs allow for adaptability. Tailoring suggests form without restricting the wearer. Draping and proportions are chosen so that each piece can belong to many identities, and details like drawstrings are added to adjust leg lengths. To me, that is true expression.
The safety pin motif is a recurring theme in your work. What does that symbolise to you and what do you want it to signify to us in terms of the brand’s vision and values?
The safety pin symbolises connection and care. It holds things together when they might fall apart. It also has roots in protest and community. For me it is a reminder that design can be beautiful and meaningful at the same time. It stands for the values of integrity, strength and unity that define the brand.
How do you want the community that wears Olivia Black to feel about themselves and the world around them when they are wearing your creations?
I want them to feel seen, confident and true to themselves. I want them to feel part of something thoughtful and creative. When they wear Olivia Black, I hope they feel a sense of belonging, empowerment, and the knowledge that their clothing is an expression of value.
You first came to our attention through your 2022 Graduate Fashion Week and subsequent Jimmy Choo Academy MA collections. How did those experiences prepare you for launching your brand and what have you taken from them to implement into your own practice?
Those experiences taught me discipline and clarity. My graduate collection showed me the importance of story and visual coherence. The Jimmy Choo Academy helped sharpened my technical skills, made me question production ethics, and helped me define my brand values. It was there I committed to sustainability and gender fluidity, not as trends but as foundations. All of this shapes how I develop Olivia Black today.
Which designers have inspired you and why?
Vivienne Westwood, for her fearless voice and her challenge to norms. Alexander McQueen, for his artistry, edge and storytelling through fashion. Loewe, for its craftsmanship and narrative depth. Also, designers who did not come from privilege but built their careers through resilience and vision. Their journeys show that luxury can have meaning and impact beyond appearance.
Having shown during London Fashion Week what are your plans and aspirations for the rest of 2025 and into 2026?
I want to develop the Olivia Black story with experiences such as collaborations and partnerships that reflect the brand’s values. I also plan to expand into carefully chosen boutiques and retailers that share a commitment to craftsmanship. My goal is for Olivia Black to be known not only for its garments, but for its presence, a conscious, personal and lasting form of luxury. This being why I call my community the Evolved, as they think beyond what is currently happening in the fashion world and like to take risks and push boundaries. The brand is made for people who don’t fit in and never want to.
Making luxury, legacy pieces that channel her own familial artisanal antecedents, Olivia Black creates clothes that marry classic tailoring with an experimental edge and elevated basics that are far from basic. That longevity perspective is reinforced through an innately sustainable fashion footprint and a seasonless approach to producing collections that are crafted by local U.K based makers. Constructing pieces that transcend trends and time, Olivia Black is one of that vanguard of emerging designers who’s showing us that clothes can be both ethically made and exciting to wear.
It was serendipitous that Flanelle was there when Olivia showed her Graduate collection in 2022 and it’s been hugely rewarding to see the growth and development of a practice that’s reached its latest iteration with a collection entitled “Serendipity”. A designer whose commitment to community is highlighted by describing the coterie who share her vision and values as “The Evolved” we look forward to watching her continued evolution.
