Text by by Brian James and Leigh Maynard
For A/W 24 Helen Anthony gifted us a collection that while continuing to feature the signature elements that have made the brands runway shows such a beloved fashion week favourite was also one that displayed the ongoing progression of Creative Director and designer Naeem Anthony’s artistic vision.
Melding a boldly contemporary sensibility with an innate understanding of fashions cultural touchstones, the collection showcased at London Fashion Week in the gorgeously luxe and achingly apt Kimpton Fitzroy hotel. The designer unveiled a parade of creations which were unmistakenly Helen Anthony, but which also saw an evolution of the experimental edge which characterizes his work while continuing to pay homage to the meticulous Savile Row tailoring and craftsmanship that lies at the core of the brands DNA.
Few designers do deconstructed formalwear as expertly as Naeem Anthony and A/W 24 saw suiting which came with an executive edge in vibrant greens, cobalt blues and pillar box red that were accentuated by dagger collars and ink black ties. A voluminous long coat in fluffy hot pink appeared alongside an array of the most fabulous slinky trenches in a multitude of colours while club ready garments shared space with beautifully constructed gowns. It was a collection that spanned the full range of the designers’ vision and technical ability. Clothing to take us from the corporate space to the club space. A cross-pollination of influences spanning the decades, reinvented with a distinctly 21st century perspective that breaks boundaries, shatters outmoded gender norms and challenges our perceptions of what fashion should and can be.
That appreciation of heritage was first learnt from his great grandmother Helen Thomas who taught him tailoring techniques and whose role in Naeem’s career is commemorated in the brand name. It’s an appreciation of fashion history that was exemplified this season by the brand’s partnership with Yorkshire-based Laxton Yarns who were founded in 1907. A collaboration which saw the Shipley manufacturers hand-knitted multi-coloured crochet details adorn so many of the collection’s pieces. One which chimed perfectly with the designers’ own staunchly sustainable ethos which sees Helen Anthony design its own luxury fabrics and yarns in the UK, including Scotland where much of the fabric is woven.
Flanelle spoke to Naeem Anthony after the London Fashion Week dust had settled to ask about his latest collection, the global influences which inspire him and the ethical intentionality which underpins all that he does.
Congratulations on your A/W 24 collection. What influenced and inspired your latest body of work?
The inspiration behind this collection stems from a rich tapestry of cultural diversity, which is reflected in the vibrant colour palette of yellow, red, blue, green, pink, and white that I have chosen. Each colour signifies a different culture, embracing a global perspective that is deeply embedded in my brand ethos.
Additionally, sustainability remains a cornerstone of my philosophy, guiding us to create not just eco-conscious, but also beautifully crafted pieces, that stand the test of time. This commitment to craftsmanship and diversity shines through in every aspect of our work, from the pieces themselves to the diverse range of models representing various cultures and races in our casting.
We loved the vibrant colour palette and mix of edgy and elegant. How important to you as a designer is it to keep the brands signature elements while continually evolving?
Maintaining my signature craftsmanship while evolving is crucial. From the start, my focus has been on producing finely tailored, high-quality garments. I pride myself on designing my own fabrics and yarns in Britain, with a strong emphasis on hand embroidery. This commitment to craftsmanship aligns closely with my dedication to sustainability, aiming to create durable pieces that defy the throwaway fashion culture. My approach ensures every piece is not just a garment but a lasting symbol of skilled artistry. This dedication to quality and sustainability is the essence of my brand, a standard I never compromise on!
For A/W 24 you collaborated with Yorkshire-based Laxton Yarns. How did that come about and how rewarding is it to collaborate with those who share your appreciation of luxury and heritage?
With the aim to craft everything in the UK and maintain the highest standards of quality and sustainability, finding Laxton was a pivotal moment for this collection. My commitment to working exclusively with British companies led me to discover this Yorkshire-based yarn manufacturing mill, renowned for their heritage and innovation in yarn production since 1907.
With innovation and sustainability at the forefront of everything they do, they set out to manufacture a fully traceable yarn, Wool Trace, the first of its kind. With Wool Trace this allows the user to have full traceability of the journey of the product. By simply scanning the unique QR code assigned to the product, the user can look further into the product journey right back to the farm.
This really suited the collection as sustainability is really at the core of what we do at Helen Anthony.
Your creations are meticulously tailored. What levels of craftsmanship go into making a Helen Anthony piece?
My journey in fashion, particularly in tailoring, has deep roots in Savile Row, renowned globally for its exquisite bespoke tailoring tradition. Spending significant time there, I immersed myself in an environment celebrated for its high-level craftsmanship, which has profoundly influenced my approach to design.
Every Helen Anthony garment reflects this dedication to craftsmanship, with a focus on structure and precision tailoring. For instance, creating a single full-canvas jacket involves up to 60 hours of work, including numerous hand stitches. This meticulous attention to detail is what sets our pieces apart, embodying the essence of bespoke tailoring in every stitch.
Sustainability is at the core of all you do. What sustainable practices do you follow and how do you monitor that they also extend to your supply chains and those who work in them?
At Helen Anthony sustainability is more than a trend, it is the mindful way that we create every piece of every collection. Long term wear and use is always our mantra, every garment is made to last! We strive to adhere to the best business practices e.g.: utilizing the best quality fabrics, with garments created with eco-friendly fabrics, non-toxic dyes, and crafted to last. Our team of tailors and craftspeople work in excellent conditions, and we treat everyone as part of the HA family.
We are a luxury Slow- fashion label with a commitment to minimising our carbon emissions by using fabrics made in the UK and our production is in the UK and Italy, we are constantly evolving which means we minimise any packaging (all packaging is fully recyclable. We reduce our carbon footprint by creating every garment in-house and we donate any excess fabric to charity and recycle so there is no excess left after each season. We transport the clothes by couriers that share our commitment and values. We source like-minded suppliers who adhere to our stringent practices.
Meaning every collection is perfectly curated and adheres to our core values, this is our long-term strategy not just a trend.
You founded Helen Anthony in 2015. What was the catalyst for founding the brand, who were your role models and who inspired you to start the brand?
Helen Anthony was born out of a deep respect and admiration for my great grandmother, Helen Thomas, who was not only my mentor and inspiration but also the person who introduced me to the world of tailoring. Launching the brand was my tribute to her, a way to keep her legacy alive through each piece I create. She taught me everything I know, and naming the brand after her was my way of ensuring her name and spirit live on. This endeavour is a personal journey as much as it is a professional one, embodying the skills, values, and passion for fashion she instilled in me.
As you approach your tenth anniversary how has the industry changed in that decade and how have you navigated those changes?
Reflecting on the past decade, the fashion industry has significantly shifted towards valuing sustainability alongside luxury. Starting in the premium market, I’ve seen first-hand how vital it is to adapt and learn continuously. My journey has been about more than just refining Helen Anthony; it’s been about understanding our environmental impact. This realization has guided us towards adopting sustainable practices, not just in creating timeless pieces but in contributing to a healthier planet. As we evolve, so does our commitment to both the craft and the world around us, ensuring we play a part in safeguarding the environment for future generations.
What do you feel has been the key to your longevity in an industry where designers’ careers are often short-lived?
Helen Anthony’s success is built on a commitment to quality and authenticity. We’ve always avoided shortcuts. My initial goal was to make Helen Anthony a premium brand. This required a strong foundation and careful craftsmanship. Patience has been key! Timing and precision matter in meeting industry demands. We also focus on our audience’s evolving needs. High-quality garments have always been our focus. With a clear vision, we navigate fashion’s complexities with integrity.
In the show-notes you express your love of Scotland. What is it that you love about Scotland and how is it reflected in the Helen Anthony aesthetic?
My love for Scotland is deep. It is the mountains and greenery that draw me in. As a designer, I find inspiration everywhere. The sheep, the landscape—they’re part of my fabric designs. They are integral to our fabric creation, providing the wool that becomes the very essence of Helen Anthony designs. We craft our fabrics in the UK, including Scotland, incorporating traditional patterns like tartan and checks, as seen in my collection. Scotland’s serene beauty offers me peace and endless inspiration, reflected in the distinctive aesthetic of Helen Anthony’s collections.
What are your ambitions and aspirations for Helen Anthony for 2024 and beyond?
For 2024 and beyond, my ambition for Helen Anthony is clear – I am planning to open our flagship store in Mayfair soon. This step is significant for Helen Anthony. It embodies my vision. Opening in Mayfair is a leap towards realizing our aspirations.
Since the brands inception in 2015 Helen Anthony has been defined by an edgy elegance, a mastery of pattern cutting and an artistry and command of fabric manipulation which continues to evolve. Aligned to this is a vision which marries the timeless with the contemporary and which explores our heritage to produce 21st century hero pieces that thrill the eye and provide the dopamine hit we all require.
Acutely aware of the environmental cost of overproduction and the need to cut away excess, Helen Anthony is also a brand that’s inculcated with a staunchly sustainable ethos, one that’s authentically holistic and which extends beyond the sourcing and production of the designers’ tour-de-force creations.
In pulling together these various threads Naeem Anthony has created a space in the fashion industry where his globally minded conscious values and sleek, chic stellar designs are wowing an ever-increasing fashion cognoscenti. If you don’t already know Helen Anthony, we’d suggest this could be the time to get acquainted with the brand.
Many thanks to Naeem for taking the time to speak to Flanelle and to Natalia and Meg for all their help.
Photo Credits : Darren Brade. Location : Helen Anthony’s FW’24 Ready to Wear Collection presented on Sunday 18th February 2022 at Kimpton Fitzroy London, LONDON.