Blow-Up: A Designer’s Reclamation of Creative Power
There are moments in every artist’s life that define their journey. These moments often come wrapped in trials, doubt, and unexpected turns. But, it’s the resurgence from these trials that mark an artist’s true prowess and self-belief. In the world of fashion, where trends are transient and styles fleeting, it’s the stories interwoven within the fabric that stand the test of time. One such tale is that of Veta Horwitz, the prodigious fashion designer, celebrity stylist, and artist whose trajectory was changed by a single slip of paper from a hat.
A decade ago, her senior thesis pivoted from her original vision to a movie she hardly knew. Conflicted, she found herself pulling inspiration from the 1960s fashion film “Blow-Up”. Little did she know, this project, born out of compulsion, would lead her down a path of doubt, rejection, and eventually, to reclamation. The vibrant collection she created then went unnoticed, even by Veta herself, only to erupt into the limelight years later in the most unexpected of circumstances.
Today, we delve deep into the heart and mind of Veta Horwitz, exploring her intricate journey, understanding her initial reluctance, and celebrating her triumphant reconnection with her own creation
Veta, could you walk us through the moment you drew “Blow-Up” from the hat? What was going through your mind, and how did you reconcile your original ideas with this unexpected direction?
This is such a great question because that was one of the most complicated moments of my college career. The entire class was told that the prompt could potentially become our senior thesis if our other ideas did not hold up. I was scared and worried that all the time invested in my original ideas would be for nothing. I saw those words on the paper and thought-what on earth? Is this a bomb? Will I bomb? I envied the other girl in class who pulled “Twin Peaks” as I actually knew what that was. A brilliant, edgy, and sexy TV show. I had no idea what “Blow Up” was.
Looking back now, I can see how well suited the film was for me, but I was so riddled with anxiety and fear that the simple fact that it wasn’t my idea made it hard for me to accept. It made it feel like I had failed. My other ideas were coming directly from my heart and soul. This “Blow Up” idea came from 2 professors that absolutely despised me. I didn’t want to do the assignment that they gave me because I assumed it wasn’t what was best for me. I did not have a choice however, since I was in a school and the only way to graduate was by getting a passing grade. I sat with myself and made a choice: I must find something that speaks to me within this movie. It’s my challenge as a designer. If I’m truly to be a designer I must complete this task.
Also, in case you want to know why I say the professors despised me…it’s a long story. But in a nutshell: They were new professors at my school. They were entering their second year of teaching when I became their student. The two were married to each other and had been running a design business together before becoming teachers. One of them was an adjunct teacher at my school for a couple years before accepting the full time position. Three years prior to pulling “Blow Up” out of a hat, I was an intern at their tiny fashion company that they ran out of their apartment on St. Marks place in New York City. I was fired halfway through my internship for being “too unknowledgeable of the fashion industry and a liability to their company since I was such a terrible intern.” Please note, I was the only intern and there were not any other employees. I was free labor and only 19 years old. Getting fired from that “job” was one of the most heartbreaking times of my teens. I had a hard time forgiving myself for being such a “failure.” I spent the next couple years fearing them and fearing failure.
Your collection drew inspiration from the aesthetics of the 1960s film, including the color tones and silhouettes. How did you find the balance between paying homage to the era and adding your own creative flair?
I studied how clothing was constructed by finding old vintage pieces from thrift stores. I studied the types of fabrics that were used during this time period. I recognized that the houndstooth pattern was heavily used in the 60s and thought I should create my own version. How can I make this collection come from my heart and soul as an artist? I paint portraits. Much like the photographer in the film I took inspiration from the model Veruschka. I painted a portrait of her. Then I screen printed it onto a dress. I then decided to take the silhouette of her portrait and digitally create my own pattern imitating a houndstooth pattern. Vinyl materials were used in the 60s a lot. They showed up as patent leather coats, boots, purses, headbands…. Ect. I decided to use vinyl as an accent to the shoulder in my denim jacket, an accent to the trench coat lapel, and as the material to construct a corset. While acknowledging the fashion trends of the era and color themes in the film I chose to create a collection that felt modern and timeless.
You mentioned that for a long time you felt disconnected from your “Blow-Up” collection. Can you delve into why you felt this way, and how your perception has changed over time?
Unfortunately my senior year I was told that I was a terrible designer by my teachers. I did a presentation at the end of my 4 years showing the entire fashion department my collection of clothes and the teachers that had instructed me mocked my collection saying it was not exciting enough and that I was a better photographer than designer…and that I should probably pursue photography instead. What made it worse was seeing the rest of the department sit there silently afraid to disagree with these professors. No one said anything. They just let my professors rip my collection apart with insults. I graduated and thought to myself-should I even submit my portfolio for employment? Will I be laughed at like I was in school? I took the summer to think about it while working as an assistant art teacher and reflecting on my 4 tough years in school. I decided yes-I will pursue fashion- but not in New York City. I was terrified of failing in New York, again. Instead, I went home to Chicago and applied for a production assistant job in a small fashion house there.
I was working for an extremely disgruntled designer who had not had the success she desired and she took her frustrations out on me and her seamstress. She was cruel. My experience working for her for almost a year and a half officially ended my time in the fashion industry. I concluded that fashion was not the career for me no matter how much I loved it-It kept rejecting me.
My collection represented the time where I thought I was a brilliant designer, but I was actually the least talented in the class according to my professors. My job out of school only made it that more clear. I left my collection and career behind and started following a new path. In the decade that has passed a lot has changed for me. I acknowledged that the reason I gave up on my career wasn’t because of the mean bullies I encountered along the way; it’s because I stopped believing in myself.
I have learned to believe in myself again and as I found my way back to this I started to see myself differently. Not only did I see my current self differently, but my past self as well. I asked myself-was I truly always this failure and embarrassment that these bullies told me I was or was that just a perception that they pushed for so convincingly … so much that I was convinced and I believed it? I found my answers and now I’m here loving myself and my strengths.
The story of wearing your trench coat to an event in Hollywood is quite serendipitous. How did this experience shift your perspective on your collection and your capabilities as a designer?
It was one of the most magical moments of my life as a designer. The photographer snapped pictures of me as I was arriving at a comedy show. There was a step and repeat red carpet as well and I hadn’t even made it onto that carpet yet… then when I stood in line to get into the comedy show people came up to me and asked me where my coat was from. I, for the first time in a decade, said, “I made it. It’s my design.” They were in awe. They wanted my socials. I did not realize that night or even days later how special this was. It did not register in my mind or body that I was an influential fashion designer in Los Angeles. I thought nothing of my collection or of myself. The more I thought about this experience the more I realized how powerful my designs might be. Only a couple weeks ago did I look up my name in Getty and find my “celebrity sightings” photo. That confirmed everything. I am more than capable of creating beautiful eye-catching designs that demand attention and recognition. I was ready to revisit what I had created and officially put it out into the world for the first time.
Has your work as a celebrity stylist influenced your approach to fashion design, or vice versa? How do these two roles complement each other in your career?
This is such a great question because they absolutely complement each other in every way you can imagine. Knowing the history of fashion and how it all came to be helps me navigate style and how to interpret trends, fads, and the intuition to try something new. Having the knowledge of clothing construction allows me to imagine how something I can only see from a picture could potentially be styled- so I can anticipate before deciding to pull that item for a fitting. Having an education in design also gives me the confidence one needs to look into the eyes of some of the most intimidating celebrity clients or PR reps or…showrooms and know my worth, my talent, my skill. Having access to the styling industry as a designer is so special. I have access to know exactly what clients are looking for and what showrooms prioritize. I can cater my design decisions based on what the market is looking for. Of course you want to stay true to your brand and what you see for your collection but this is also a business. So you should always keep in mind what will sell vs. what will sit.
Your collection incorporates unique elements like plastic vinyl and digitally printed houndstooth patterns. Could you tell us more about the material choices and why they were significant in capturing the spirit of the 1960s?
I chose fabrics that best represented the era like cotton, wool, leather, silks and man-made plastics as the 60s were obsessed with these types of materials. Everything is lightweight and ready for the summer/spring season. My original print was printed on silk and a brushed cotton spandex fabric which creates the illusion of a vintage material, but it is actually quite modern. The vinyl is a nod to the 60s obsession with spandex, nylon, and plastic materials.
The term “Blow-Up” seems to have multiple layers of meaning for you now. Beyond the initial film inspiration, it now stands for self-belief, rising from doubt, and blowing up societal expectations. How important is it for you that fashion carries an emotional and personal message?
It is so important to me that fashion has emotional and personal messages. If it doesn’t then why are we creating? What is the point of art if it isn’t telling a story? When I first made my collection 10 years ago I did not incorporate any edgy aesthetics or styling. Now that I have brought the collection back to life I decided to give it an edge. To show that I am back and I am tougher than ever. The new elements that are personal to me are the 1989 patch design on the leather mini skirt and the plastic corset with a rope closure in the center back. I also added lots of metals and spiky styling elements to the photoshoot to truly dive into the spirit of tough “don’t mess with me” vibes. It’s important for me to showcase it this way because it’s true to my journey. And anyone who resonates with how the clothing makes them feel will totally get where I am coming from.
Your story is one of resilience and self-discovery. How do you think this personal narrative influences the way you approach new projects or collaborations in the fashion industry?
I think because of my experience I’m really focused on making fashion fun and inclusive. During my education in fashion and doing internships in NYC I encountered a lot of hostile and abusive working environments. It has inspired me to never indulge or contribute to that culture. I want to be kind, respectful and fun! I want anyone who works with me to have had a positive experience where they also felt like an equal collaborator.
In hindsight, do you think the challenges and constraints set by your professor during your senior thesis process were beneficial? Would your journey have been different without them?
I have the perspective that everything happens for a reason and we should not have regrets. Although my experience was very difficult, I believe the journey I have taken to reach this point is perfect. Sure, if things had gone a different way I would have ended up somewhere else and hopefully somewhere I would be extremely proud to be. I can only be grateful for my past and learn from my hardest times. I have spent so much of my adulthood in therapy going over my greatest traumas. It was not until I faced them that I could move past them and love them and myself deeper. After all of this work- might I mention also ongoing work-I find myself exactly where I should be.
1As you’ve transitioned from someone who felt uncertain, to a celebrated stylist and designer, what advice would you give to young designers who might be facing their own doubts or challenges?
Don’t believe anyone else’s opinion about you. Just do not. It can completely destroy your creative process. Sometimes we fail 100x before we create something genius. We must not listen to those critical voices telling us we will never accomplish what we dream. Once we do listen to those voices we have abandoned ourselves. An artist that abandons their own intuition is no longer an artist but a puppet searching for a master. Don’t become that. I love myself for my journey and I see it clearly. I was lost for a decade looking for someone to guide me. I finally found that person, ME.
Find more of her collection VETAH1989 Clothing Line via her Instagram page @vetastyledme