by Brian James
YEF Studio takes its name from the initials of Creative Director and designer Yalei Elena Feng who founded the brand in 2022 after graduating from Kingston University with both an BA and MA in fashion design. Finding her sartorial home lay in menswear with its attention to detail and co-existing requirements of fashion and functionality Yalei has chosen to focus on that market.
Possessing an encyclopedic knowledge of streetwear’s cultural codes the designers debut A/W 23 collection took inspiration from iconic photographer Derek Ridgers whose images documented the music-based youth culture tribes of the 70s and 80s, mass movements which defined those decades. Those influences continued to inform Yalei’s S/S 24 collection which she entitled “Reckless”, and this seamless progression brought us a further assemblage of impeccably tailored streetwear pieces that transcend trends and seasons.
Many of the pieces which comprised that latter collection bear the brand’s mantra “Ordinary made Extraordinary” a call to arms empowering all who wear YEF Studio to be their unapologetic and authentic true selves. It’s a brand philosophy that’s underscored by an environmental empathy which sees the designer embrace a slew of rigorously sustainable practices throughout all stages of the design process from initial inception to point of sale.
Flanelle sat down with Yalei to ask about what motivated her to focus on menswear, the inspirations and influences that have informed the brand aesthetic and her ambitions for the future.
For those who might be new to YEF Studio how would you describe the brand identity and aesthetic?
Why shout it when you can wear it? A harmonious blend of classic tailoring techniques and contemporary details. Clean lines, precision cuts, and impeccable. Our garments place the confidence of the wearer at its heart providing an expression of individuality that takes the gold medal but whispers rather than shouts about it.
You founded YEF Studio in 2022 after graduating from Kingston University. How did Kingston prepare you for starting your own brand?
I started my Master’s degree with the attention to start my own brand, I made sure every tutor knew my goals lol. Throughout my study they were super supportive! They have given me varying degrees of support both in and out of professional courses. For example, providing free trims (from sponsorship), various types of fabric samples, entrepreneurship guidance, and free legal advice and accounting for one year after graduation. I super appreciate it!
What motivated you to focus on menswear and who are the menswear designers that have inspired you?
I love a challenge! I thrive on anything that is challenging and complex, so that I can feel alive. I feel like menswear can give me that kind of excitement. Men’s attention to detail and functional requirements are very consistent with common sense and more challenging. Fashion is not what they want. Fashion and durable are what they like.
Raf Simons is the one who has inspired me the most! His innovative and boundary-pushing design approach has inspired me to think outside the box and challenge conventional norms in menswear and his exploration of youth culture, music, and art in his collections resonates with me and a lot of designers who are drawn to his edgy and rebellious aesthetic. Including his willingness to push boundaries and embrace diversity in his designs has inspired me to create fashion that is more inclusive and representative of a broader range of identities.
We understand your debut A/W 23 collection was influenced by the legendary photographer Derek Ridgers. What is it about his work and the youth cultures of the 70s and 80s that resonate so strongly with you?
As an outsider to Western culture, this completely independent style of expression is particularly attractive to me. The boldness and expressive attitudes conveyed through music, dance, and fashion influenced my choice of materials and design concepts. The distinct “outsider” vibe captured in his works allowed me to deeply understand and appreciate the essence of youth life during a period I wish I had experienced firsthand.
You named your S/S 24 collection “Reckless”. What were your inspirations for it?
The spring/summer 2024 collection represents a seamless continuation of the concepts explored in the 2023 collection. I have a preference for comprehensive development of my interests, rather than adhering to a single inspiration for each collection. It feels like a natural progression for me.
The collection’s name originates from a standout feature I found particularly intriguing in the previous series. This naming convention reflects a fresh mindset I’ve embraced in designing the spring and summer lines – one that involves continually questioning the necessity of established norms. For instance, why should the back pockets of the trousers be strictly even? Do they all need pocket bags? Must the waistband always be linear? These inquiries fuel a more dynamic and engaging approach to design, making it both intellectually stimulating and creatively rewarding.
Do you think designers require a certain degree of recklessness to start a label in such a highly competitive market and what challenges and obstacles have you had to overcome since founding YEF Studio?
Opportunities favour those who are prepared, but true readiness may never be fully attained. Recognize the right opportunity and seize it recklessly! Personally, I’ve encountered numerous challenges, including a lack of market understanding and inexperienced company management, particularly in areas outside my expertise.
These issues can only be resolved through ongoing learning from practical experience and acknowledging mistakes. There are multiple paths to success, and none are without their own uncertainties. Stay committed to the path you’ve chosen, trusting in your journey despite its twists and turns.
“Ordinary made Extraordinary” is a brand mantra since inception and adorns pieces in the “Reckless” collection. How do you want those who wear YEF to feel about themselves and the world around them when they wear your pieces?
Every piece we create is a labour of love, meticulously conceived and brought to life with care. We don’t chase fleeting trends; instead, we aim to create timeless pieces that endure through the ages. Our mission is to honour the unique essence of every individual, empowering them to express their true selves through their wardrobe. Not be afraid to hide their feelings, wearing their hearts on their sleeves.
Our inspiration behind “Make The Ordinary Extraordinary” comes from the beautiful diversity and contrasts found in each of our customers. We believe in celebrating these differences, using our own unconventional twist on classic styles to install confidence and leadership in every man who wears our creations. Mediocrity simply isn’t in our vocabulary!
Sustainability is at the core of the YEF Studio ethos. What sustainable practices do you follow and how do you monitor the practices of others in the supply chain?
We source our materials with utmost care, choosing eco-friendly fabrics that minimise harm to the environment. By prioritizing organic, recycled, and responsibly produced textiles, we strive to reduce our carbon footprint and contribute positively to the ecosystems that inspire us. We deliver high-quality products by using materials that appeal to premium and durability.
We select responsible suppliers, by choosing suppliers who prioritize sustainability and align with our brand values. We research their practices, certifications, and reputation within the industry and establish open communication channels with suppliers to discuss sustainability expectations and requirements. We also developed a questionnaire or checklist to assess potential suppliers’ sustainability practices and encourage suppliers to obtain recognized sustainability certifications, such as Fair Trade, GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), or OEKO-TEX Standard 100.
Are there any challenges between having those ethical values and also being commercially viable. If so, how do you navigate them?
Of course, we have found some measures that are difficult to implement or cannot be implemented for brands at this stage. Such as conducting periodic site visits or audits to observe supplier operations firsthand. As a new brand, we lack the resources we can use, such as financial and personnel. This resulted in a lot of suppliers that we were interested in working with that we couldn’t actually visit.
There is also an issue about the MOQ (minimum order quantity). Many interesting fabrics or processing processes require a large amount of production to support research and development and mass production, and our current demand is far from this required quantity. Therefore, our solution is to do what we can. Aim for the long term and now focus on developing our ideas and foundations with limited resources. The meal is eaten one bite at a time. Through development to gradually improve our sustainable practices.
What are your ambitions and aspirations for YEF Studio for 2024 and beyond?
As YEF STUDIO progresses forward, our steadfast vision remains unchanged. We aim to establish a timeless legacy, symbolizing enduring style that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Through every collection, YEF STUDIO aims to ignite men’s confidence in expressing their unique selves, nurturing a worldwide community that values the refinement of a meticulously crafted attire. Committed to unwavering standards of quality, design, and craftsmanship, YEF STUDIO is poised to shape the story of men’s fashion for generations ahead.
While their latest collection is entitled “Reckless” we don’t think there’s anything rash in getting to know YEF Studio, a super luxe emerging streetwear brand whose meticulous attention to tailoring allied with an appreciation of past decades seminal fashion movements has combined to produce 21st century menswear that’s both traffic stopping and eminently wearable.
It’s a design aesthetic that’s hard to master but one which YEF Studio have accomplished adroitly with a fashion philosophy that’s underpinned by a staunchly sustainable ethos that Yalei continues to refine and develop as the brands profile increases. We say yes to YEF and think you’ll do too.
Many thanks to Yalei for speaking to Flanelle and to Hannah, Becca and all the team at Black PR for their help.