By Sarah-Eve Leduc
It starts with a cleanser. Then a toner. Maybe an essence. A serum. A cream. Eye cream. Sunscreen. Mist. Oil. Overnight mask. If you’ve lost track, that’s the point.
The multi-step skincare regimen has become one of the beauty industry’s most polarizing rituals. Skincare, one of TikTok’s most popular dermatology-related hashtags, received hundreds of millions of views. To some, it’s the ultimate form of self-care. Slow, intentional, layered with meaning. To others, it’s a performative habit, bloated with unnecessary products and inflated claims. But what lies beneath the steps?
And how many steps do we really need? Let’s break it down.
My Own Routine
I didn’t always consider skincare a ritual. For a long time, all throughout my 20s, I would wash my face with a simple soap and add a moisturizer. A checklist to complete before moving on to whatever came next. As I came into my 30s, it changed when I started paying attention to how my skin responded not only to products, but to consistency.
Part of that shift came from experience, both professional and personal. Working as a journalist, and often covering beauty and wellness, I found myself speaking with people who didn’t treat skincare as superficial, but as science.
It was during a Zoom interview with Jennifer Brodeur, years ago, that something shifted for me. She didn’t speak about skin the way most people did. To her, it wasn’t just a surface to treat; it was an organ, intelligent and expressive, constantly reflecting what’s happening beneath. The way she spoke about skin reframed everything I thought I knew. Skin wasn’t something to fix. It was something to listen to, to support, to respect.
As I came in my 30s, there was something else that shifted, not all at once, but gradually, like tuning into a frequency I hadn’t noticed before. Now, my routine is made up of steps that feel deliberate. I would say I still fell in the multi-step products trends, while still following what my skin demands.
As the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends using a gentle cleanser and moisturizer twice daily (morning and evening) for the best results. This is because there are many known benefits of facial cleansing and daily moisturizing. Humans have diverse commensal microbes on facial skin that are integral in preventing harmful pathogens from colonizing the skin (1)
The Steps
- The Oil Cleanser and Foam Cleanser. I use both. Beginning with an oil cleanser to sweep away the day, ( makeup, pollution, everything the city leaves behind ), followed by a gentle foam to finish the clean without stripping the skin.
- The Serum And Toner. Toners first, and serums after. Niacinamide or Vitamin C is my anchor in my serums.
- The Moisturizer and Sunscreen I follow with a moisturizer that suits the season, and never skip sunscreen ( sometimes it’s in my moisturizer, which makes it easier not to forget ). I’ve learned it’s the most reliable insurance policy I can offer my skin.
At night? Evenings are slower. Retinol enters the rotation a few times a week, a soft push for renewal, never a shock. Some nights call for a face mask and a lip treatment. And then there’s the LED or infrared light: I rotate between the Lyma laser for targeted precision and a red light mask that frees my hands to answer emails or fold laundry while the treatment runs. One is high-tech and focused. The other is convenient. Both have earned their place.
Every product I use, I’ve bought, repurchased, and repurchased again. This article is all about the brands I love. If it’s mentioned here, it’s because I loved it and it made a difference.
The Korean Multi-Step Skincare Routine: How It Began
It wasn’t until a trip to Seoul in October 2024 that I truly grasped just how serious skincare could get. I discovered Olive Young, a skincare and beauty store, and suddenly, Sephora felt like a warm-up act. Long before Western beauty shelves became crowded with essences and ampoules, skincare in South Korea had already developed into a culture. More than a routine, it was an everyday act of care that prioritized prevention over correction. Where Western beauty leaned on aggressive treatments and quick results, Korean skincare leaned into gentle layering, hydration, and respect for the skin barrier.
Traditionally, these routines included up to ten steps, starting with oil-based cleansing and ending with nourishing night masks or occlusive creams. But it wasn’t rigid. What made Korean skincare different was its adaptability. If your skin was feeling dry one day and oily the next, you could adjust. The 10-step routine, later introduced globally through beauty blogs and viral YouTube tutorials, was never intended as a strict prescription.
Its global popularity was driven by more than skincare innovation, it was fueled by cultural export. The rise of K-pop and K-dramas, with their ever-dewy, poreless stars, helped turn glass skin into a mainstream aspiration. Brands like Laneige, Sulwhasoo, and Dr. Jart+ entered Western markets, bringing their formulations and philosophies with them. Other brand favorites worth mentioning are Beauty Of Joseon, which is quite affordable, Glow Recipe, Aestura, and Purcell. The routine’s global fame also owes much to South Korea’s aggressive investment in cosmetic R&D, often outpacing the West in formulation innovation, especially in areas like fermentation, encapsulation, and barrier technology.
When it hit Western consumers, nuance was lost. A flexible philosophy became a rigid formula, marketed in neat, numbered steps.
What The Science Says
Dermatologists tend to agree on a few essentials: cleanse, moisturize, protect. But more steps don’t automatically mean better results. Over-layering can do more harm than good, especially if active ingredients conflict or irritate the skin barrier.
France also has its own version of the skincare “cult,” but it’s more effortless in attitude than in execution. The French approach is rooted in pharmacy culture, with brands like Avène, La Roche-Posay, Bioderma, and Embryolisse offering dermo-cosmetic routines that feel clinical yet elegant.
Multi-step routines are common, especially among women who’ve grown up visiting the pharmacy for skincare rather than Sephora. The French layering approach is focused on cleansing, toning (often with thermal water), targeted serums, moisturizer, and facial oils, all adjusted seasonally. Skincare is deeply personal and passed down generationally, not viral trend-based.
The ROC35 study, considered the most extensive anti-aging skincare study conducted to date in France, tested over 200 patients across 35 dermatology clinics. The results confirmed that a structured skincare routine, built with scientifically validated ingredients, doesn’t just improve how skin looks. It improves how it functions. According to the study, skin health can be visibly transformed with the right regimen, and outcomes from professional dermatological treatments can be enhanced when paired with targeted skincare.
At the core of the ROC35 protocol were five specific products : two serums, two creams, and an eye treatment. Each formulated with four clinically proven actives: retinol, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, and THPE (tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine), a firming agent. Together, these ingredients were shown to visibly “reset” the skin’s appearance, aligning how it looks with how people feel on the inside.
While ROC is a specific brand and this research is proprietary, the broader message echoes what many in the dermatological community have long understood: a thoughtful skincare routine isn’t cosmetic fluff. It can be corrective, preventative, even empowering.
Less Is More
To better understand the role of layering, we spoke with two professionals who approach skin from grounded perspectives. Jennifer Brodeur, founder of Skin Sävvi and a skin strategist with over 30 years of hands-on experience, builds her practice around simplicity and long-term barrier health. Line Ciantar, a brand and business consultant working within the luxury cosmetic, medico-aesthetic and wellness industries, believes in structure with purpose.
Minimalism in skincare isn’t a trend for Jennifer Brodeur. It’s been her blueprint from the start. With nearly three decades in the industry, she’s watched trends rise, fall, and return under new names. “It’s all cyclical, really,” she says. But through it all, her approach has remained steady. Whether working it’s in the treatment room or through home care routines, Brodeur has always prioritized simplicity. “I’ve never been one to follow trends,” she explains. “My philosophy is rooted in minimalism. I believe less is more.” It’s a perspective built on respect for the skin’s natural intelligence.
“Skincare isn’t about quick fixes, it’s about the long game” she says. “The skin is a living organ. It needs time, consistency, and above all, respect. When we honour the skin, it responds, and that’s where true, lasting results begin.”
Her concern isn’t with ingredients themselves, but how they’re used… or misused. “The biggest issue I see today is an impaired acid mantle,” she explains. “ It often leads to rapid transepidermal water loss. This sets off a cascade: dehydration, followed by inflammation and irritation. It all reinforces the importance of slowing down, simplifying, and really listening to what the skin needs.”
For Brodeur, breaking that loop means returning to essentials. “I’m obsessed with essential fatty acids and antioxidants. They’re absolute game-changers,” she says. “In my opinion, everyone over the age of 30 should be using a good face oil. If your skin is lacking in essential lipids, it’s going to struggle.” Her recommendations always come back to barrier support. Not just hydration, but real, cellular protection. It’s the kind of work that doesn’t show up overnight, but builds over time.
She also urges people to be more mindful of brand layering. “All brands bring something valuable to the table,” she notes, “but that doesn’t mean they’re designed to work together. You have to consider compatibility. A common example is mixing retinol with exfoliating acids like glycolic or salicylic acid. Both are powerful in their own right, but used together without proper guidance, they can disrupt the skin barrier and lead to irritation or inflammation. It’s about understanding synergy and knowing when less truly is more. Which is why I highly suggest you consult with an expert before creating your own home care protocol.”
In an industry that often equates more with better, Brodeur’s voice stands out deeply rooted in skin literacy. Her message is pro-intention. And it’s a reminder that healing isn’t always found in what we add, but in what we’re willing to take away.
Listening to the Skin
When each product serves a specific purpose, a multi-step routine can be as strategic as it is sensorial. For some, this layered approach allows them to address multiple concerns; texture, tone, hydration, barrier repair.
Line Ciantar practices this kind of precision. Her routine, though not excessive, is structured with care. “I follow a consistent five-to-six step routine, morning and night,” she says. “For me, less is more, but only if the formulas are well-chosen. If you’re going to do more, it has to be purposeful. A longer 10-step routine can absolutely work, but only if it’s tailored to what your skin actually needs.”
Her skin, she notes, has changed in meaningful ways since developing a more structured regimen. “It feels more resilient, radiant, and more balanced” she says. “But more importantly, this routine has helped me tune into how my skin reflects everything happening internally, like seasonal changes, diet, exercise, hormones, and especially stress. Skin is incredibly intuitive. It often mirrors how we live, feel, and care for ourselves.”
For Ciantar, cleansing and hydration are the foundation. “Some will say SPF sunscreen (and they’re not wrong!), but for me, it’s cleansing and hydration. Removing daily buildup and pollution is essential, but so is replenishing hydration immediately after and drinking water.”
Her approach blends clinical and clean science-backed actives, minimalist formulas, and products that avoid unnecessary fillers. Her antioxidant of choice is vitamin C, ideally stabilized for long-lasting performance. “It has to be formulated well,” she notes. “Alphascience, for example, uses a technology called NextGen® to stabilize vitamin C. It gives me that bright, even-toned look while protecting my skin throughout the day.” That kind of innovation matters. Not all serums are equal.
Evening routines are more fluid. She rotates gentle actives like niacinamide, retinol, and lactic acid, depending on how her skin is responding. And she never layers everything at once.
But perhaps the most compelling part of her philosophy lies beyond the product lineup. “Your skin also responds to your nervous system,” she explains. “Chronic stress can dysregulate the vagus nerve, increasing inflammation and dullness. Prioritize rest, breathing rituals, and nervous system support.”
Red light therapy, smart sun exposure, movement, and sleep are part of her regimen too. Not as add-ons, but as essentials. It’s not about doing more for the sake of doing more. It’s about building a routine and a lifestyle that works in sync with your skin, not against it.
Building a Routine That Works
What works for one person may do nothing for another. Or worse; it may cause irritation, clogging, or skin damage. That’s why building a routine isn’t about replicating a template. It’s about personalizing based on your skin type, goals, and environment.
”A skin strategy should be reviewed and adjusted regularly—our skin is constantly evolving. It’s important to start slow, especially if your skin is reactive. Introduce one product at a time so you can truly see how your skin responds.”, Says Jennifer Brodeur.
If skin is reacting, her advice is unapologetically clear: stop. “Sometimes the best strategy is to pause. No actives, no layering, just let the skin breathe. Give it 14 days. Then, start over, one product at a time, with purpose.”
So… where to start ? We at Flanelle have tried multiple regimens, and absolutely loved these products which are really easy to start building up on the skin ;
For beginners, the RoC 5-Product Box is a smart, science-backed place to begin. Designed around the RoC35 study, the five-product system includes:
- A stabilized vitamin C serum ( day )
- A moisturizer with plumping agents ( day )
- A hydrating eye cream ( day and night )
- A firming night cream with THPE ( night )
- A buffered retinol treatment ( every other night )
Products We Love
Cleansers
Editor’s choice – Oil-based and Foam: Sulwhasoo Gentle Cleansing Oil & Gentle Cleansing Foam
Others:
Toners & Essences
Once considered an optional extra — or worse, astringent-heavy and drying — toners have undergone a quiet reinvention. Today’s formulas are no longer about stripping the skin, but preparing it. Many modern toners are designed as the first step in hydration, softening the skin and rebalancing pH after cleansing.
Toner: L’essence Peoni by JB Skin Sävvi available on JBskinsavii.com
Toner with retinol: OOTD – Glass Skin Race Water Toner Pad available on Amazon
Toner with AHA BHA: Beauty Of Joseon Green Plum AHA BHA Toner
Essence: Beauty Of Joseon – Essence water
Serums:
Niacinamide serum: Beauty Of Joseon Glow Deep Serum
Vitamin C Serum : RoC Vitamin C Serum available on Amazon, Shoppers & Walmart
Vitamin C Serum : Skinceuticals C E Ferulic with 15% l-ascorbic acid
Moisturizers
Lightweight : Estée Lauder – Revitalizing Supreme+ Bright Power Soft Creme Moisturizer With Vitamin C
Neutral: La Crème Peoni by JB Skin Sävvi available on JBskinsavii.com
Rich cream on a budget: Cerave Moisturizing Cream
Eye cream: La Roche Posay – Tolerience Eye Cream
Lip masks: La Neige Lip Mask
Sunscreen: Beauty Of Josean Relief Sun
Treatments
Retinol: RoC Derm Correxion Firming Serum Stick Advanced Retinol
Red light therapy: Lyma Laser + full-face mask
Face Masks: MZ Skin – Anti Pollution or Hydra-Lift Face Mask
Future
There’s no universal number of steps for good skin. At the very core of it, extrinsic aging is affected by sun exposure, environmental insults, stress, sleep patterns, smoking, and various lifestyle factors.(2) Brodeur emphasizes that foundational skin health is never about complexity for complexity’s sake. It all starts with health, sleep, food, water intake and stress. First and foremost. When these factors are tackled, following a skincare routine is known to help.
For those just beginning, Line’s advice was steady and grounded. “Start with the fundamentals, a good cleanser, moisturizer, and SPF. Then introduce one active at a time. Build with curiosity, not urgency.”
So, does your skin need all those steps?
Sometimes. Occasionally. Rarely all at once. What matters is that each product earns its place. That your skin responds with calm, not confusion. And that somewhere between the first cleanse and the final touch , you’ve found a ritual that reflects how your skin responds and what it truly needs.
If your routine brings clarity, comfort, and visible results, it’s working… regardless of how many bottles line your shelf. Whether you layer with precision or strip it all back to basics, great skin is never about the number of steps. It’s about knowing which ones count.