What Constant Turnover Means for Brand Identity and Consumer Trust
Text by Justina Snow
Lately, it seems like fashion houses have serious commitment issues. The days when the relationship between a fashion house and a creative director resembled a long-lasting marriage – where both parties matured and deepened their understanding over time – are long gone. Ten years ago, we complained that a creative director’s tenure lasted only five to seven years. Look at us now – most last three to four years, if that. Sabato De Sarno barely had time to sip his espresso at Gucci before being ousted after not even two years, Peter Do’s stint at Helmut Lang lasted a mere 18 months, and some people didn’t even have time to memorize Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s name before he exited Ann Demeulemeester after just six months. Some call it fashion’s game of musical chairs, but it’s starting to look more like speed dating. Is it a shared responsibility, or does one side bear more blame than the other? And how this ultra fast turnover means to the brand and what we expect from fashion?
We have to acknowledge the pressure creative directors face. According to BoF, the global luxury market saw a 10% decline in 2023 and has continued to drop by 2-3% ever since. It’s easy to point fingers at the creative director for failing to generate sales, as they are the most public figures associated with a brand. And CEOs are not known for their patience – if a new collection doesn’t translate into immediate revenue, they’re already on the hunt for someone new, someone more adaptable. Preferably cheaper (it’s reasonable to assume Sarah Burton’s salary was higher than that of Sean McGirr at Alexander McQueen).
This dysfunctional relationship often stems from a clash of interests – what a designer envisions as a slow-burning creative endeavor, conglomerates view as an instant profit machine. But let’s not ignore the broader challenges affecting the industry right now: a slowing global economy, high public debt, and geopolitical instability. While some executives might be out of touch, the numbers are working against their profit-driven ambitions. Global inflation remains a pressing issue: according to the International Monetary Fund, global inflation declined from 6.8% in 2023 to 4.5% in 2025, but these rates are still above pre-pandemic levels. Sometimes, external factors hurt a brand more than any seasonal collection ever could, and no creative director – no matter how visionary – can generate sales when consumers simply aren’t willing to spend. Even if the new Jackie 1961 bag is undeniably fire.
Short-Term Thinking, Long-Term Damage
Economic downturns may come and go, but frequently swapping creative directors is a long-term liability for fashion houses. First and foremost, it weakens brand DNA. A creative director’s job isn’t just to design clothes; it’s to craft a brand’s identity. Many consumers don’t know who currently leads the design teams at Chloé or Bottega Veneta, yet they recognize the aesthetic and products they return to. As humans, we crave consistency. Frequent leadership changes disrupt brand narratives, confusing loyal customers and diluting a house’s identity. The Fashion Law – an online platform mainly focusing on legal matters affecting the fashion industry – highlights that when leadership turnover is excessive, brand DNA suffers because each new creative director has to rebuild from scratch—a costly and time-consuming process. This uncertainty can push consumers to pull back or gravitate toward more predictable brands.
We don’t have to look far to see how corporate impatience backfires. Take Gucci, for example. The brand faced a steep revenue drop of 22.7% during the pandemic. In 2021 and 2022, Gucci experienced a recovery. Then Kering, suffering from a midlife crisis, decided to change the brand’s direction. Alessandro Michele refused to cater to unreasonable requests and departed. In 2023, revenue declined slightly, but Kering quickly found a new obsession—Sabato De Sarno. By 2024, Gucci’s revenue plummeted by 23%, throwing Kering into a panic. By 2025, De Sarno was out before he even had the chance to fully implement his vision. Kering needed someone who could sell. Someone viral. As fate would have it, the answer had been right in front of them the whole time – Demna Gvasalia. Kering appointed Demna as Gucci’s new artistic director. The next morning, Kering’s shares dropped by 12% – not the reaction they have expected. The fashion enthusiasts are bracing themselves for the next dramatic plot twist in this ongoing telenovela.
That’s how the luxury industry plays the love game now – impulsive breakups and hasty rebounds. But a brand needs stability to maintain its identity, and constantly switching creative directors only fuels confusion and weakens customers loyalty. Perhaps it’s time for fashion houses to stop chasing fleeting viral moments and start investing in long-term relationships that can handle the inevitable ups and downs. Because, much like in love, the strongest partnerships are built on patience, trust, and the willingness to grow together – even when times get tough.