SUNCUN welcomed its audience into a masterclass of Chinese-style embroidery and design with its Spring/ Summer 2027 collection titled Dreams Borne on the Wind, honouring rich Chinese cultural traditions whilst exploring them through a contemporary lens.
Founded in 2015 by designer Yan Zhang, SUNCUN is a China-based label that blends traditional and contemporary elements to create looks that are truly relevant and appreciated today. SUNCUN is committed to promoting traditional Chinese culture and cheongsam fashion, working with top artisans to reimagine heritage for the present. As an established designer within the Chinese fashion sphere, Zhang is looking to expand his audience internationally, and SUNCUN has proven to be leading the way in doing so, confirming him as one to watch at London Fashion Week. The result is a fusion of East and West, pairing Chinese tradition with contemporary Western design.
Dreams Borne on the Wind was inspired by the philosophical parable Dream of the Butterfly. The collection explores fluid, transient design, led by imagery of a dissolved boundary between reality and dream. It is also rooted in Taoist philosophy, integrating in the harmonious balance of nature and the universe. The collection traced a journey from real life to a space of nostalgic peace, marking the distinction between presence and floating into a dreamlike state. Ready-to-wear drifted into couture, the collection was all about transformation. It felt fresh, bold, and beautiful. Each piece told part of the story and behind it lay extensive hours of dedicated artistry and craftsmanship.
The metamorphosis – from structured and slouchy silhouettes to ethereal and mesmerising. The SUNCUN collection demonstrated how the growing influence of Chinese couture in London Fashion Week is redefining luxury on the global fashion stage.
Garments transitioned into fluid forms: sumptuous velvet, delicate embroidery, sheer organza, and dresses with trains flowing like waterfalls. Across over 70 designs the looks on display demonstrated that quantity did not at all compromise quality. Every stitch, fold, and detail built on the transient story of the Butterfly and what it means to embrace continuous transformation.
Zhang encourages us, quite literally, to wear our dreams.
Words by Clemmie German
Flanelle had the pleasure of interviewing SUNCUN following the show. With the help of a translator, we discussed inspirations, aspirations and the importance of highlighting ancient Chinese crafts.
Clothing as a universal language: When conducting the interview, even though Zhang and I could not speak the same language, his clothes effortlessly conveyed everything that he wished to express.
Congratulations on your collection ‘Dreams Borne on the Wind’, it was incredibly beautiful.
Could you tell me a bit about the verses that inspired the collection and what drew you to them in particular?
The inspiration is from a dream. Basically, there’s a really famous word in China, where the meaning is just, when I have a dream about a butterfly, do I have a dream about the butterfly or does the butterfly have a dream about me. So it’s a very philosophical Chinese phrase about philosophy. So this is inspired by that.
He’s just saying, he’s not sure if the world is a real place or not? However, despite that, whether the world is real or not, or the reality is real or not, we have to do what we can in our current lives or the current existence to live as much as possible, and to live it to the fullest. It’s been a bit lonely actually.
How are you sustaining traditional Chinese craft within contemporary fashion design?
It’s very challenging to maintain that craft, but they spend a lot of time with the yarns and actual techniques, so those are updated to maintain the traditional elements. In the old days, it was a lot easier to damage, so they spent a lot of time trying to maintain that. Especially on embroidery. So not machine washable, but you can wear it everyday. So you have to be able to dry clean them.
Why did you choose to focus on fluid lines and layered textures within your designs?
So it’s a lot to do with the dream. The soft, fluid lines, and also the layered textures are kind of him trying to create this dream, and kind of in reality. So he infused a lot of Western silhouettes and elements within it, because he feels like all the fusion just makes things more cute, and pretty, and more feminine, and those silhouettes are quite different, so it’s quite an interesting contrast.
And what do you think is the importance in popularising cheongsam fashion?
So basically, he’s saying because in ancient China, Western people couldn’t wear these outfits, and normal working Chinese people also couldn’t wear these outfits. These traditional elements are actually something that is not really utilised or popularised right now. So he’s trying to update them and modernise them, so everybody can enjoy them. And he made a really specific comment about the way that you’re (Clemmie German) wearing a Chinese jacket, and now it’s really popular amongst a younger generation, Gen Z, you know?
Where are you planning on taking SUNCUN in the future?
So, they already have quite a big fan base in China, so he’s trying to expand the market outside of China. So, in Europe, we can show the Chinese beauty of embroidery and all of the culture.
