Text by Leigh Maynard and Brian James
Photos by Darren Brade
Helen Anthony is renowned for collections that meld cutting-edge, experimental design with quality craftsmanship, drawing from traditional tailoring methods whilst challenging modern interpretations of classic design. Since its inception in 2016, the brand has evolved from menswear only to the highly regarded gender-fluid brand it is today. During this time, Helen Anthony has garnered global recognition with features in publications like GQ, Vogue, Vanity Fair, Harper’s Bazaar, and Elle and shows in Milan, New York and, latterly, as part of London Fashion Week’s collections.
Creative Director Naeem Anthony recognised his enthusiasm for fashion design at a young age, honing his skills under the mentorship of his great-grandmother, Helen Thomas. A keen traveller, he draws inspiration from the many countries, cultures, people, and religions he encounters, combining these influences with contemporary trend-defining aesthetics. The cultural fusion of east meet west, exceptional craftsmanship and quality materials are the cornerstones of Helen Anthony. And with its roots in the renowned tailoring of Saville Row, there is always an emphasis on quality production, hand-crafted pieces and individually designed fabrics.
Combining colours and decorative embroidery from the east with the structured craftsmanship and tailoring from the west, the brand has explored themes such as unity, freedom of expression, empowerment, and individuality over the years. Signature elements underpin each collection, from large collars and striking trouser silhouettes to powerful structural features like broad shoulders. Autumn 2017 saw Helen Anthony’s first collection in London with a post-pandemic collection that celebrated unification whilst embracing non-binary looks and ’70s aesthetics. The brand continually observes style elements across the decades, propelling them into the 21st century with contemporary cuts that challenge perceptions.
This season the models walked in oversized floor-length creations with razor-sharp shoulders and flowing, low-cut maxi dresses that reflected empowerment and elegance. Naeem played with height and length as models strode down the catwalk in power suits and thigh and hip-skimming creations in bold brights and cheques with mesh garments encouraging the wearer to display their bodies proudly. It was an impressive demonstration of contemporary cross-cultural design reflecting strength, diversity, and freedom. For SS23 the designer worked with Jewellery Designer Riddhima Kapoor Sahani who specialises in Polki Jewellery, a process that dates back hundreds of years to the kings and queens of Rajasthan.
We chatted to Naeem after the show to ask about his inspirations for SS23, his latest collaboration and his contribution to sustainable design.
At the core of the collection, you are talking about empowerment. How important was that behind the concept of the collection?
You see how all of the collection has broad shoulders, which is supposed to represent power, and it’s also highly structured, but the freedom is also in the gender-neutral design.
And in terms of the collaboration, can you tell us more about that?
I am collaborating with a student brand; they work with diamonds and have outstanding craftsmanship. I collaborated because Helen Anthony is east meets west, and I use all the colours from the east and elements from the west. It’s all handmade and time-consuming, highly skilled and sustainable.
On the sustainability side of things, you use vegan leather, don’t you, and what other sustainable practices do you follow?
We only use British Fabrics, so there is no cheap labour; we use the best fabrics like wool, cashmere, and velvet, all made in Britain, and I design my own fabrics as well.
You had a very diverse body of models; how vital to the Helen Anthony concept is it to embrace that diversity?
I think we are all equal, no matter what age or colour we are, so it’s essential for me to send that message to people. Fashion is not only about the west; it is a global thing, so I just wanted to show that we are all the same.
How do you want the person who wears Helen Anthony to feel when they wear one of your garments?
I want them to feel the freedom they have as well as the feeling of empowerment wearing something chic and high fashion, and when they wear Helen Anthony, they stand out in the crowd because I break the rules but also keep the tradition. You see in the collection that all of the skirts are trying to break the rules; I make the wide lapels and broad shoulders because the looks I make are very extreme, some are super long, and some are very short and the same thing with the texture and colour.
From the first collection in Milan in 2016, we have seen Helen Anthony evolve its quality yet playful aesthetic and find a city that embraces the brand message of individual expression. After all, London’s rich mix of cultures and penchant for experimental style, along with a past steeped in beautiful tailoring, seems the perfect fit for Helen Anthony’s shows. This season, he dedicated the SS23 show to the city and its diverse community.
Helen Anthony is a brand that continually strives for excellence through considered materials and craftsmanship whilst recognising continual societal changes, helping to forge a path that sees us embrace individuality and enables its wearers to break away from collectivism. Many brands try to appear inclusive, though often seeming disingenuous. We cannot say the same about Helen Anthony; this is a wholly authentic brand in its ethos, and this sentiment channels into collections that continue to become stronger in their designs and their message. This brand quietly stands out in a world of fake shouts. It deserves recognition for maintaining quality craftsmanship whilst producing environmentally conscious designs and encouraging us to embrace our uniqueness. And whilst there is much to be done in the name of inclusivity and individuality, we are forever making strides in the right direction, and in Helen Anthony, we can make those strides in style.
Many thanks to Naeem for taking the time to talk to us and Angus at the Pop Group for arranging the interview. You can see more of Helen Anthony design’s here:
https://www.helenanthony.co.uk
