‘Creative Space’ – A glimpse into Natasha Zinko’s world and her new hub.
By Leigh Maynard
Ukrainian fashion designer Natasha Zinko is best known for creations that subvert classic design codes; with a reputation for innovation and striking aesthetics, she continues to offer her customers the opportunity to express their singularity through playful garments and jewellery infused with humour and dynamism as well as a selection of furniture, toys, kids clothes and food. Considering this, it may be surprising to discover that her initial choice of profession was a world away from fashion though no less potent in its intentions. Natasha initially chose to incite change through her study of law before pursuing fashion with a foundation at Chelsea College of Art, followed by a place at Central Saint Martins, where she studied jewellery design before launching her ready-to-wear brand in 2014.
Personal emotions are influential in the designer’s jewellery creations, and she is drawn to their provocative power; with clothes taking inspiration from her day-to-day life and surroundings, she continues this sentiment. Her AW23 collection puts powerful women at the central focus, looking to characters like Hulk and She-Hulk (herself a lawyer) to explore our inner monsters and perceptions of power and the experience of concurrent judgement and admiration a strong woman can encounter in a male-dominated environment. This same self-belief galvanised the designer as the pandemic tested her adaptability when the shopping experience swiftly moved from in-store to online. With a shop on Dover Street, Natasha readjusted her model, transforming it into a warehouse and establishing Natasha Zinko Matcha Café. The surrounding boxes not only supported her business through turbulent times but also offered a source of inspiration for the silhouettes she subsequently created.
Today the brand continues to thrive, relocating to 17 Brewer Street, Soho. The new WRHS13 space has a more raw, utilitarian interior, reflecting its multi-purpose function as a warehouse/fulfilment centre, store, and creative space. Natasha intends to extend WRHS13 to young and emerging designers to showcase and sell their work and other talents across various industries.
We spoke to Natasha about the AW23 collection, navigating through the pandemic and her newly opened store WRHS13.
Was there a specific designer, person or moment that influenced your choice to become a designer?
I saw a McQueen editorial and found out he graduated from CSM. I checked online what CSM is, being from Odesa, Ukraine. I was impressed that CSM was challenging students to think outside of the box. I have always been inspired by objects from 3D to Toys, of which fashion is a part.
You originally studied law before transitioning to fashion design. Are there any lessons you have taken from your previous studies that inform your brand today?
You must work hard and go to work every day. You have to meet other’s deadlines. Fashion is a business that has a structure much like law. And one must always be prepared for the unexpected.
Congratulations on your stunning AW23 collection referencing comic book culture and aesthetics; what prompted this choice?
The collection is called Monster. Real monsters live inside of each of us. I want to show that monsters can be both masculine and feminine and about controlling our monsters and living in harmony with them. I started reading the comic book She-Hulk. I was so enthralled by her daytime lawyer persona, who became a monster per se so that fair justice could be served. A monster isn’t a bad thing; It’s our individual yin and yang.
The collection also explores female empowerment. Do you feel that the fashion industry offers equal opportunities for female designers, and what other changes would you like to see regarding equality?
Fashion is one of the most diversified industries in the world across placements of Designers, Executives and Models of all sizes, genders, and nationalities. It is easy to critique, and I want solutions. It is easy to point fingers, but as I learned early on that, when you point one finger at someone/something, three fingers are pointing back at yourself. Life is not fair. It’s how I pivot to find change and support the equality that safeguards everyone’s well-being. I stick with the winners and learn from my mistakes. I have always found it ironic that male models make half the money female models make.
You imbue your designs with playful elements and bright palettes; what informs this aesthetic?
It all depends on the collection. I am never predictable. It is about feelings. I am inspired by reality. I like to be guided by my intuition. My recent AW23 collection was my least colourful collection to date, reflecting my current feelings. There is a lot going on in the world today. We are living in very precarious times. There are a lot of monsters out there.
AW23 explores the transformative power of clothes. How do you want someone who wears Natasha Zinko to feel in your designs?
To feel powerful and provocative. The AW23, and as with all my collections, I want to disrupt the narrative. Quiet luxury is easy, safe, and ordinary. I want my customers to express themselves. To find individuality. To not be afraid to be different. I have always lived my life like this. I met inspirational people in this industry like Mrs Burstein, founder of Browns and Sarah Stewart, Buying Manager of Maxfield and Riccardo Grassi, founder of the namesake Italian showroom. They all supported my “out of the box thinking”. They love that I don’t check all the right boxes and commercialise my collections to align with all the fashion algorithms.
You recently launched a store at 17 Brewer Street in London’s Soho called WRHS13 that will also be used to amplify other emerging fashion talent. Can you tell us more about this venture and some of the designers you’ll be featuring?
I am currently speaking with the BFC and CSM. Stay tuned for more.
The store serves as a multi-faceted space for in-store and online purchases as a response to the changing face of retail after the pandemic. With so many people adopting online shopping, do you still think there’s a place for the in-store experience?
Yes, I believe in the touch and feel of reality. It is more intimate. I get turned on the most when a random client comes to the store and tries things on and gets as excited as I do. You miss this online. You only witness transactions. Watching the live-action sales is understanding what is missing. Customers want to discover and explore. It’s impossible to explore online as sizing is so random. There is less room for error in store. Plus, you can have a nice matcha latte hand-crafted in our café by the most renowned Baristas. Supporting England’s Ukraine Sponsorship initiative, all my Baristas are displaced Ukrainians starting a new life here, creating a culture of hope and a fresh start.
WRHS13 also utilises the space carefully to emphasise sustainability. Does this extend to the materials and suppliers you use for your collections?
We reuse and upcycle boxes, overstock, and fabrics. Growing up in the Soviet Union, it was ingrained never to discard anything as you never knew when a small cardboard box or a wooden bench might be needed years from now. Everything was always stored away carefully. Sustainability is in my blood; I didn’t just start practising because it became a cool” thing” to do back in 2015. We should all be doing our part. Several cabinets from my previous Dover Street have been reimagined into new forms of function in my WRHS13. All the packaging materials are sourced from recycled materials.
Can you share what’s next for the brand and your future aspirations?
Stay tuned to my @natashazinkomagazin @wrhs13 and @natashkinoltd. Newness is constantly coming.
Natasha Zinko is a designer whose design sensibility reflects her fearless attitude to her craft. Rather than adhering to traditional constructs and standards, she carves her path with an open-minded and distinctive take. No doubt, her time studying law lends her a unique perspective, and her determination to adapt through a blend of intellect, ambition, and humanity has strengthened the NZ brand and offered fresh hope to those who work with her.
Her Matcha Café initiative extends the brand’s experience at her WRHS13 store and brings optimism to her fellow Ukrainians who benefit from their place and experience working at the cafe. This entrepreneurial spirit extends to the brands that use the space under the designer’s supportive enterprise.
WRHS13 is not just a shop; it’s a multi-faceted space that serves as a store, warehouse, and backdrop to emerging voices across industries and a platform to amplify their message and talent. Meanwhile, upcycled cardboard boxes continue to line the walls; space is well-spent as display rails are built into storage racks for online stock. Soft, furry seating tempers the industrial steel while the matcha machine bubbles in the background. Every little brown box is practical and metaphoric, a constant reminder of triumph over adversity through adaptability. Every matcha latte brewed denotes the designer’s environmental and considered intentions, while the clothes serve authenticity and fun. Having designed three consecutive collections as commentary on our life in boxes, the houses, shops, offices, and screens we inhabit, Natasha Zinko is the self-proclaimed ‘Queen-of-Boxes’. And just as her AW23 empowers individuals and celebrates their strengths in all its forms, so will WRHS13.
You can find WRHS13 at 17 Brewer St, London W1F 0RJ or shop the collections online at https://natashazinko.com. Photo Credit of the Collection : Jason Lloyd- Evans