by Brian James
DORIAN WHO is the semi-synonymous slow- fashion streetwear brand founded by Tehran born, Toronto based designer and Creative Director Dorian Rahimzadeh in 2018. Drawing from cultural touchstones that are informed by her Iranian heritage and the freedom of expression that she found after moving to Canada, Dorian Who makes genderless, ageless avant-garde pieces. Pieces defined by sculptural silhouettes and dramatic dimensions, that transcend seasons and trends.
Core to the brands ethos is a desire to empower the wearer and enable them to live life as their authentic true selves. For many that’s something taken for granted but having been brought up in the oppressive and restrictive atmosphere of Iran, Dorian knows only too well how precious that gift of self-expression is. Unsurprisingly, the current suffering being faced by the Iranian people is something that motivates Dorian to show support and solidarity with them through her work, 2023’s “Noor” being inspired by the “Woman, Life, Freedom” movement.
That commitment to using her platform as a vehicle to advocate for social justice is married to an environmental empathy which has seen the designer using deadstock materials since the brands inception and minimizing its carbon footprint by ethically sourcing and producing all the clothes in Toronto,
This alignment of values, together with Dorian Who’s traffic-stopping creations has seen the label recognized in Canada with the designer being awarded the 2023 Emerging Talent award at the Canadian Arts and Fashion Awards. Recognition has also been forthcoming on the global stage with Dorian Who being shortlisted as one of nine finalists for 2023’s Amiri Award which looks worldwide to identify the next generation of fashion creatives. And when it comes to stopping traffic, Dorians incredible personal style has seen her voted one of Toronto’s very best dressed.
Flanelle spoke to Dorian about the influences and inspirations that have shaped her life, the message of empowerment and inclusivity that underpins all that she does and her aspirations for 2024.
For those new to Dorian Who how would you describe the brand’s aesthetic and what motivated you to give the label its highly evocative name?
For those new to Dorian Who, let me describe the brand’s aesthetic and share what motivated me to give the label its highly evocative name. DORIAN WHO is my brainchild, a Slow Made, Season-less, Avant-garde streetwear brand that utilizes deadstock materials and is based in Toronto. As a Toronto-based designer originally from Tehran, my fusion of Iranian and East Asian art profoundly inspires the brand. The mission of DORIAN WHO is deeply rooted in fostering a community that empowers everyone to embrace their unique selves and break free from societal boundaries. Being a BIPOC female-owned business, my commitment extends to empowering women to be WHO-ever they want to be, irrespective of gender norms. This commitment is embodied in the brand’s genderless and age-less philosophy, moving towards a more inclusive narrative.
Dorian Who is not just a fashion platform; it’s a passionate advocate for sustainability. We create timeless pieces designed to be staples in your closet, encouraging a departure from fast fashion and embracing a personal and lasting experience. The brand has gained recognition from prestigious publications such as Forbes, Teen Vogue, Vogue Arabia, Hypebae, Grazia Italy, Hello Canada, The Kit, The Globe and Mail, Elle Canada, Business of Fashion, Haber Turk, Women’s Sense, Toronto Life, and Fashion Magazine, reflecting its impact in the world of fashion.
We understand that you grew up in Iran living in a very restricted environment. Was fashion an escape from those restrictions and how liberating was it moving to Canada where you found the freedom to openly express yourself?
Growing up in Iran, fashion became my sanctuary – an avenue where I could express myself freely despite the constraints of my environment. My father worked as a Persian rug dealer, and my mom was a creative soul. I was raised in a very tense environment. As a young woman, I faced immense societal and academic pressure. I endured years of bullying due to my distinct style. However, these challenges ultimately strengthened me into a strong, confident, independent woman.
In 2004, my family and I made the life-changing decision to move to Canada. However, the journey and process of relocating spanned a decade. During the interlude, I completed sewing and pattern-making courses in Tehran, where I also gained priceless experience working alongside one of the most accomplished designers. Subsequently, I moved to Turkey to pursue fashion design at Lasalle, a prestigious Canadian Fashion/Art college. From a young age, I harbored ambitious dreams and a desire for career growth. However, my studies in Turkey humbled me, revealing that my prior knowledge was only a fraction of the expansive fashion world.
In 2015, we finally arrived in Canada. Finding employment was challenging, but my passion for fashion led me to showcase my style on Instagram, garnering international attention. Despite the challenge, life in Canada gave me freedom of expression and opened doors for opportunities, ultimately inspiring me to start DORIAN WHO in 2018. I aimed to create a space where like-minded creatives could learn and thrive. I’ve been self-funded since then, as mentorship and financial support were scarce in the Canadian fashion industry.
What challenges did you face and have to overcome as a newcomer to Canada and how difficult was it to break into the Canadian creative industries?
Due to my struggle to find work and internship opportunities when moving to Canada, I created my own opportunity, hoping to establish a space for like-minded creatives to grow and learn. From the beginning of my journey, I have been self-funded and self-taught through the years, facing a need for mentorships and funding within the Canadian fashion industry. Since 2019, I’ve been hustling to establish my presence in fashion. With the absence of government support and the high financial demands of producing in Canada, I’ve dedicated extra hours to my brand, funding my clothing line to keep moving forward. Today, I remain committed to my journey, recognized as a nominee for Emerging Designer and Fashion Digital Creator for CAFA (Canadian Art and Fashion).
Slow fashion and sustainability lie at the core of everything you do. The seasonless” Bloom” capsule collection which dropped in Summer continues that ethical ethos. Can you tell us about the sustainable practices you follow and how satisfying it feels to give new life to discarded materials?
We all know the world has too many clothes, and I wanted to create a brand that had a solid foundation. Sustainability is the core of my brand, and I tried to find ways that don’t need technology and tons of money to be a conscious brand that deserves to exist. I’ve been using deadstock materials from day one. The brand is currently made to order. We have zero waste accessories, and everything is ethically sourced and produced here in Toronto. Everything is hand-finished, and we dye fabrics and materials originally.
My clothing is made to be timeless and does not follow trends. So they have a solid and unique identity to them. Since Canada has long winters, I needed to focus more on traditional seasons. That’s why we decided to go seasonless in 2020, a week before Gucci announced they would be seasonless. It feels incredible to have a role in doing something to help the environment. Emerging designers have a significant role in shaping the industry, and I enjoy the challenge of it.
Congratulations on receiving the prestigious 2023 Emerging Talent award at the Canadian Arts and Fashion Awards (CAFA). In your acceptance speech you said that you want to be a voice for the oppressed and give courage to women. How important to you is it to use your platform to highlight issues you feel passionate about?
It has been a goal of mine since day 1 to create a brand that empowers people to be who they are without fear of expressing themselves. I have used my platform to give courage to others to speak up. Although there are times when I feel scared due to the traumas I have experienced throughout my life, I believe it’s crucial to support each other and let people know that you are here for them. Dorian Who is dedicated to empowerment, stemming from an environment of overcoming restrictions. I aimed to build a brand that empowers individuals regardless of age, gender, or nationality. My deep roots, background, and culture are evident in every collection I have created. This authenticity makes my brand unique, as it not only reflects my culture but also embodies my solid style.
One of those issues is the oppression and suffering faced by the Iranian people and this years “Noor” collection was inspired by the “Woman Life Freedom” movement. In what ways did that manifest itself in the designs and how would you like the collections message to resonate with the people of Iran and across the world?
“NOOR” illuminates the ongoing desire for change and empowerment through women’s voices, representing a continuation of my experiences and the emerging movements worldwide. The designs vividly tell a story through “NOOR,” showcasing the emergence of solidarity within oppressed communities. The solid silhouettes and army green fabrics emulate a warrior’s uniform, symbolizing the strength that individuals embody in their daily lives. Emphasis is placed on bold colors and patterns that demand attention, paying homage to the yearning for women’s voices to be heard and seen. The overlap between masculine and feminine structures mirrors the boundaries individuals break in their quest for equality.
The collection has achieved significant success, resonating with people and effectively speaking up about the movement. I’m genuinely pleased with the result and hope the message continues to make a meaningful impact in Iran and worldwide.
We absolutely love your personal style. Who are your style icons and how have they influenced you?
I have drawn inspiration from various athletes and rappers recently. I’m particularly drawn to genderless design and consistently strive to infuse masculine energy into feminine designs and vice versa. My style icons include Lewis Hamilton, Kyle Kuzma, and ASAP Rocky.
What do you want the person who wears Dorian Who to feel about themselves when they wear one of your creations and are there any public figures you’d love to see dressed in your designs?
The brand’s goal is to create a community that will ultimately empower everyone to be their unique self and help them push the boundaries society has set for them. As a BIPOC female-owned business, I am committed to empowering women and helping them be WHO they want to be regardless of gender norms. This is why the brand is genderless and age-less, moving toward a more inclusive narrative.
(9) This year you were one of nine finalists nominated for the Amiri Award which looks worldwide to identify the next generation of fashion creatives. Given the physical and personal journeys you’ve taken in your life how rewarding was it to see your work recognized on the global stage?
Being one of the nine finalists among 1000 applicants was incredibly rewarding. Receiving recognition from someone like Mike Amiri, who started a few years ago, was exceptional. It gave me hope and reminded me that it’s all about the journey and these achievements.
2023 has been a landmark year for Dorian Who. What are your goals and aspirations for 2024?
Financial constraints have proven to be a significant challenge in expanding the business. Balancing personal branding projects with my clothing line has become delicate, with limited resources demanding attention. The intricacies of production, especially in Canada with its high costs, remain a focal point, as I am steadfast in my commitment to delivering high-quality, timeless pieces. Regrettably, the support and recognition I anticipated in Canada haven’t materialized as expected, given the less prominent nature of the fashion industry here. Consequently, my primary goal for 2024 is to secure the necessary capital and showcase my collection in key fashion capitals, striving for increased exposure and recognition.
Recognition continues to be bestowed upon Dorian with her receiving the accolade of one of Torontos rising stars of 2023 after she spoke to us. It’s recognition that’s richly deserved for a designer whose personal and physical journey to this point in her life and career is testament to her perseverance, fortitude and love of fashion. A love that’s allowed her to not only create a series of breathtaking collections but to also give back to the communities in both her homeland and the country that’s given her the opportunity to pursue her dream.
Naming her brand Dorian Who was a response by the designer to people mesmerized by her incredible work and personal style asking, “Who are you”. There are few now among the fashion cognoscenti who don’t know the answer to that question. Here at Flanelle we think that Dorian Rahimzadeh is a designer who you should get to know in 2024.
Flanelle would like to thank Dorian for speaking to us and you can connect with the brand here https://www.dorianwho.com/ and here https://www.instagram.com/weardorianwho/
