by Brian James
Bora Aksu chose to show his SS25 collection in the ecclesiastical setting of St Paul’s Church gardens in the heart of Covent Garden, an oasis of tranquility in one of the busiest parts of one of the world’s busiest cities. It was a venue that was at one with the artful elegance and sophisticated serenity which are synonymous with the designer’s work. Those characteristics were imbued with an additional element of poignancy this season as the designer lost his mother Birsen Aksu in January of this year.
A defining presence in his life, whose personal style influenced his design aesthetic, and who also contributed to the making of certain garments in his earliest collections, this collection was both a personal and creative homage to her. Those recollections and sense of remembrance were evinced through every facet of the show from the clothes, to the bouffant beehive hairstyles and cat’s eye sunglasses that the models wore in celebration of Birsen’s 1960’s wardrobe, to the garden setting whose much-admired Platinum Jubilee rose bushes echoed his mother’s love of that flower and horticulture.
That reverence was reflected in the collection’s pieces, many of which displayed a distinctly 1960s silhouette including precision-tailored box and belted jackets. The luscious layering techniques used across many of the garments referenced the lab coat his mother wore in her role as a doctor. As with all Bora Aksu’s work, SS25 was inculcated with the designer’s signature sensibility, an essence that manifested itself in swathes of tiered tulle, delicate lace detail, and floral embroidery which appeared across an assemblage of covetable demi-couture dresses. That essence of theatricality and romance which permeates all the designer’s work was further evidenced by a colour palette whose gamut bridged a kaleidoscope from dusty pink, whites, and nudes to pillar box red.
Describing the Bora Aksu vision and values to Flanelle the designer said “My design aesthetic fuses a romantic sensibility with raw elegance. Delicately textured fabrics and whimsical detailing are underpinned by a distinctive twist on tailoring which sees darker, more storied elements temper decorative shapes and translucent use of colour. There is an imperfection that creates purity and beauty. For me, fashion design is a visual language that enables me to communicate with the outside world”.
It’s a signature aesthetic that Bora Aksu has become renowned for and one that continues to evolve. Asked how he marries that recognition factor with the process of evolution Bora told Flanelle “Design identity is like your own design language, no one else has the same language so it’s crucial to own it and keep it. Of course, it’s important to evolve with each- and- every collection and within your own signature style. I do like telling stories through collections and for me, the collection development really makes sense if it’s based on a story. Even the fabrics, textures, or contrasts within the collection become a representation of certain elements of storytelling. Some stories especially ones more personal to me or based on my childhood probably stand out in my mind more than others”.
Those sentiments seem particularly appropriate with this latest body of work which celebrates and commemorates his late mother’s life and legacy. It was also a collection and show experience that was one of our highlights in this, London Fashion Week’s, forteith anniversary season. We asked Bora how significant London Fashion Week, and this landmark anniversary, are to him and his career.
He told us “I believe that LFW is the only platform that enables creativity to grow and blossom without trying to mould it into a commercial box. Since I graduated from CSM (BA & MA) I have been able to show my collections and grow my business through the incredible support I’ve received from the British Fashion Council and London Fashion Week. So I feel like LFW is a home to me and I will never stop appreciating the amazing support”.
Having shown his debut collection in 2003, Bora Aksu’s longevity, in an often transitory business where many fail to survive beyond a few seasons, is built on the same solid foundations as those industry institutions he credits with having done so much to support him.
Bora said ” I always believe designers need to stick to our guns more than ever as the individual design language and approach becomes so important. The fashion and trends attached to fashion changes so fast and as a designer I believe it’s important to have the awareness of these changes but it’s even more important to be loyal to your design identity. My aim as a designer is to create my own definition of beauty…. to seek and define beauty in my own terms”
Having unveiled this latest collection to great acclaim Flanelle asked what goals and aspirations he has for the future ” The world is in such a fragile state, with wars, global climate crisis, and financial challenges. I believe that we all need hope right now. Ultimately, Fashion should bring hope and encouragement into the times we live in and move into a better world. I think that finding a better world can only happen when we discover our better selves. Sustainability and any efforts to protect natural resources are even more essential than ever. Fashion should be more sustainable but it needs a collective approach. We need to all understand that sustainability is one of the main paths that we all need to take to help nature restore itself”.
Finding a better world is undoubtedly helped by our exposure to the exciting and exceptional work that Bora Aksu gifts us. Truly timeless pieces imbued with ethereal elegance, whose creation is underpinned by a meticulous attention to craftsmanship and ethical intentionality. Qualities that have seen Bora Aksu cement his place as one of fashion’s most highly respected talents and makes us excited to see what comes next.
Many thanks to Bora for speaking to Flanelle and to Anna at AB Comms for all her help.
