“AI design is a space where fears and uncertainties often coexist with exploration and beauty”
By Holly Downes
Creatives often cite the use of Artificial Intelligence (AI) as a threat to creativity – a technology that disconnects an artisan from the power of traditional craftmanship – but for the Kazakhstan-born AI fashion designer, Alena Stepanova, this could be further from the truth. Rather, the London-based designer proudly tells Flanelle Magazine she is “helping to shape what is to come” because “AI will only grow from here,” stressing that AI is an invitation to create a space where customs and newness can operate in the same ecosystems. Best known for her project ‘UnmadeUnmade’, she debuted in the world’s first AI Fashion Week in 2023 in New York, and since then, has produced four collections – all of which are digital, AI-generated and exist virtually.
Alena expands the creative realm of fashion design, and her four collections are imbued by this very sentiment: they are innovative, bold, and are a loud testament to her Central Asian heritage. Her pieces are a graceful portrayal of her interpretation of womanhood and sisterhood, and pieced together, her garments are a mirror to themes of strength, resilience, grace, femininity, connection, and shared identity.
What I always try to avoid is creating just another beautiful image.
This way, Alena seamlessly intertwines her heritage with the technological possibilities of AI, and her personal touch can be found in every layer, material choice, and stitch. She boldly showcases that AI is more than an automation but is a tool that augments and accelerates something as personal and sacred as fashion design.
In this interview, she talks about her “pivotal” invitation to showcase her work at AI Fashion Week, her creative process – specifically why “trusting the process and allowing the unexpected to happen naturally” is key – and where she hopes the AI fashion design movement will continue from here.
To start could you tell us a bit about yourself, your background and how you found your way into the fashion world?
I was born and raised in Kazakhstan, a country shaped by its rich multicultural heritage and welcoming spirit. As the child of immigrants and later an immigrant myself, I grew up with a deep understanding of diversity and resilience. Growing up surrounded by Central Asia’s vibrant cultures and traditions gave me a unique perspective on beauty, identity, and storytelling.
While my background is not directly in fashion, I found a way to combine my love for storytelling and creativity with the possibilities AI offered. The turning point came when I was invited to participate in AI Fashion Week as an AI fashion designer. That opportunity led to worldwide publicity, featured in fashion magazines, exclusive digital photo shoots, and becoming part of the broader conversation about AI in fashion.
Who/what would you cite as the main inspirations that pushed you to pursue fashion, specifically the use of AI?
When text-to-image technology emerged, I saw it as a great opportunity to start creating. My starting point was clear and instinctive – I turned to what I knew best: Central Asia. Its rich ornaments, colours, textures, history, fabrics, textiles, and even hairstyles became the foundation of my prompts. Instead of exploring endless creative possibilities or letting outcomes go wild, I focused on translating this cultural code into my designs.
I began experimenting with the first version of the AI image generator, MidJourney, learning as the technology evolved. At first, I had no idea how far it could take me. Then came the invitation to attend AI Fashion Week, which was pivotal for me. It wasn’t just about playing with new tools anymore; it was about taking my vision of Central Asia’s beauty and crafting it into something that could be shared with the rest of the world.
Could you describe your creative process? What gets you motivated? What inspires you? What method of working works best for you as an AI fashion designer?
The process itself is very meditative, even soothing. It begins with an idea I envision in detail -colours, shapes, textures, emotions – and then requires quieting my mind to break that vision down into components. From there, I refine those elements, describe them precisely, and arrange them correctly before reconstructing the vision through AI prompts.
This method helps me stay present and focused on the details without fixating too much on achieving a specific outcome. It also requires trusting the process and allowing the unexpected to happen naturally.
What motivates me is seeing how far I can push the boundaries of a prompt to create something that feels as close as possible to what I initially envisioned. But it’s not just about achieving technical accuracy – what drives me most is the emotional impact. If the final visual or design makes me feel something, I hope it will evoke a similar reaction in others. If it doesn’t move me, that image will likely never see the light of day. What I always try to avoid is creating just another beautiful image.
For me, the goal is to go beyond aesthetics and design something meaningful – something that resonates on a deeper level.
Is there any subject matter that is currently inspiring your work?
My favourite subject to explore and my main inspiration has always been Central Asia, where I’m from. Its rich colours, breathtaking landscapes, the vast deserts and steppes, and its deep cultural code shape my creative vision.
At the heart of it all, though, is the Central Asian woman – her resilience, grace, and the strength found in womanhood and sisterhood. This exploration of femininity, connection, and shared identity remains the central theme in my work.
Can you tell me about the meaning of/inspiration behind your brand name, unmadeunmade?
The name unmadeunmade is inspired by Thom Yorke’s hauntingly beautiful song “Unmade”. The track’s ethereal and melancholic tone mirrors the themes of transformation, loss, and the unsettling beauty found in unravelling something familiar.
For me, it resonates deeply with the creative process in AI design – a space where fears and uncertainties often coexist with exploration and beauty. Like the song’s themes of deconstruction and emotional vulnerability, AI design involves breaking down ideas, reimagining them, and embracing the unexpected.
It’s a process that can feel unsettling but ultimately leads to something profoundly new and moving. The name encapsulates this journey of unmaking and remaking, where creation emerges from the space left behind.
AI has the potential to significantly enhance the fashion industry in areas like supply chain management, research and analysis, consumer behaviour insights, purchasing decisions, and trend prediction. Its applications extend far beyond design, offering opportunities to improve efficiency and innovation across the industry.
Some designers I have interviewed cite the use of AI as “lazy, soulless and a disconnect from craftmanship and artisans.” What do you have to say about designers that are against the use of AI in the design process?
I respect each designer’s perspective and their choice of tools that best align with their creative vision. If some feel that AI doesn’t suit their process, that’s entirely valid.
However, I believe, as Björk once said about electronic music, “You can’t blame the computer. If there’s no soul in the music, it’s because nobody put it there.”
Similarly, AI is a tool; the soul and artistry come from how we use it. Beyond the creative aspect, AI has the potential to significantly enhance the fashion industry in areas like supply chain management, research and analysis, consumer behaviour insights, purchasing decisions, and trend prediction. Its applications extend far beyond design, offering opportunities to improve efficiency and innovation across the industry.
How do you balance AI-generated creativity with your personal artistic style?
My personal style couldn’t be more different from what I create. My aesthetic is minimalist, even ascetic in a way, built around intentionality and balance. But AI gives me the freedom to fully immerse myself in creativity – exploring bold textures, vibrant colours, and dramatic styles.
It feels like my alter ego, a space where I can express parts of myself that don’t come through in my everyday life. This contrast brings a sense of harmony, balancing my quiet, minimalist world with the uninhibited creativity that AI enables.
What is your favourite collection, and what makes it special to you?
My favourite AI-generated collection is Entanglement, which I created exclusively for the first AI Fashion Week. What makes it so special is that, back then, it felt like I had suddenly found the perfect creative tool to tell my story – the way I see it, and the way I feel it.
The collection is about deep roots connecting us to our homes, wherever they may be. It’s about what that connection means to us now – the place we were born into or brought up in – and how it continues to shape us, even when we’ve left, immigrated, or been forced to leave.
I wanted to tell my story about my homeland through the colours of Central Asia, the textures, the elements, and even the hairstyles. Now, when I look back at the collection, knowing how much AI has progressed since then, I still feel that Entanglement stands out. With the tool as it was back then, the visuals and designs we were able to create feel unmistakably AI-generated, but also more real than anything I’ve ever created – because it was so genuine and deeply personal.
Describe your experience at the first AI Fashion Week in 2023. What were some highlights from the show?
The world’s first ever AI Fashion Week was an incredible opportunity, and I’m deeply grateful to have been part of it alongside such talented designers. What stood out most was the overwhelming support from the community. We were at the dawn of AI fashion, collectively defining, designing, and discovering this new creative space. There was a genuine sense of camaraderie – everyone was excited to see each other’s collections, celebrate creativity, and push the boundaries of what was possible together.
Could you touch on what you feel sets your work apart from other upcoming designers?
I think the AI art space is very diverse, especially at this early stage. It doesn’t feel like there’s room for competition or comparison – it’s more about contributing to a larger movement.
I hope we all make it, and I see each of us as adding something valuable to the change that’s happening. For me, it’s not about standing apart; it’s about being part of this pioneering moment and helping shape what’s to come. I’m happy to have been here from the very beginning.
Fashion can mean many different things to different people. What does fashion mean to you and why is it important in your life?
For me, fashion is both deeply personal and quietly transformative. It has the unique power to influence how we think, challenge what we know – including what we know about ourselves – and shape the culture around us. At the same time, it offers the freedom to explore and redefine whenever we want to, as if it’s a bottomless bucket of second chances. This sense of transformation and possibility is a beautiful privilege, one I never take for granted.
I know it’s probably hard to narrow it down to just one, but if there was one thing you would like to see change in the fashion industry, what would it be?
If I had to choose one thing, it would be responsible consumption. AI can play a key role by helping brands optimize production, predict demand, and reduce waste, ensuring that what is created truly aligns with what is needed. It’s a way to make fashion more thoughtful and sustainable.
The fashion world is notoriously hard to break into. What would you say are the most significant challenges you’ve had to overcome to reach the stage you’re at now?
With AI-generated fashion, I don’t feel like we’re breaking into an established world. That’s not what we’re doing. Instead, we’re finding ways to coexist with traditional fashion. This isn’t about replacing – it’s about collaboration and co-creation. The challenge is building a space where both worlds can thrive together, showing how AI can complement craftsmanship and expand creative possibilities. It’s less about breaking in and more about building bridges.
What role do you think AI will play in the future of the fashion industry? Do you think more designers need to embrace its use?
AI, in all its aspects and possibilities, is already here in different shapes and forms – and it’s not going anywhere. When it comes to the fashion industry, I believe everyone is free to choose when, or even if, they want to start using AI.
But it’s important to acknowledge that we’re not talking about AI becoming a part of our lives – it already is. So, it’s really a matter of when and how we integrate it into our processes, rather than if. AI is already reshaping how we design, produce, and consume, and its influence will only grow from here.
To finish the interview, is there anything exciting coming in the future you could let us know about?
AI is evolving at a meteoric pace, and every day brings something new. With more brands starting to embrace its potential, I’m excited to see how this journey unfolds – for both me and the industry. The possibilities ahead are endless, and I can’t wait to explore what’s next.
