By Brian James and Leigh Maynard
Image Credits: Maja Smiejkowska
Chinese designer KAY KWOK returned to London in February after the success of the SS23 collection in September 22, when he returned after an eight-year hiatus under the rebranded KWK by KAY KWOK. It was another success for the Hong Kong-based designer who first came to prominence when he exploded onto the catwalk at London Fashion Week in 2013 to critical acclaim.
Now celebrating its 10th anniversary, it’s a career that continues a stellar trajectory, with KWK by KAY KWOK garnering global recognition from its inception, from top fashion houses like McQueen, where KAY KWOK spent time under their tutelage, as well as accolades from international fashion competition MittelModa which saw the designer the first from his nation to win in 20 years. Since then, he has worked with a roster of global brands and dressed prominent music artists, such as Muse, Korea’s SHINEE and artists A-Mei, Joey Yung and Landy Wan.
Recognised for an aesthetic that pushes against gender stereotypes and conventions, KWK by KAY KWOK examines and embraces digitalisation and technology while promoting philanthropy, empathy and inclusivity. For AW23, the brand continues to explore the relationship between fashion and consumers through the hybrid lens of the digital realm and reality, maintaining its Avant-guard, futurist philosophy and experimental expression with a new brand avatar. An ambassador exempt from real-world expectations, the avatar is liberated to explore atypical scenarios and solutions in the metaverse. This season ‘LALA’ embodies our anxieties, apprehensions and principles surrounding the climate change emergency and our shared global responsibility to protect the planet.
Though the nexus of the brand is seemingly unchanged with its emphasis on individuality, latitude and inclusivity through genderless creations, this season, aesthetically, there is a shift in direction, with asymmetrical designs and distressed dresses and a darker palette appearing to take the brand into a new chapter.
We spoke to KAY KWOK about his latest futuristic muse, pushing consumers’ perceptions of the brand and his goals and aspirations for the future.
Congratulations on your latest A/W 23 collection, which introduces us to a dystopian character, “LALA.”, a half-human, half-robot who lives underground to shield herself from unbearable outdoor temperatures. Where did this inspiration come from, and in what ways did it influence the A/W 23 creative process?
Every collection, we take inspiration from our avatars background and storyline set in the year 2100. What they see, think, feel, and experience in the world of 2100 is the starting point of each season’s inspiration.
They are a group of people who were being left on Earth when all human have gone to Mars and Moon. Since their story are different and unique, it can be very diverse in terms of inspiration each season.
We loved the asymmetric trench coats, the knee-length suede tops, and distressed denim dresses. This collection seemed to mark a change in direction from the metallics and space age aesthetic of the previous two. How important as a designer is it to constantly evolve and not only challenge yourself but also the people who might have certain preconceptions about what a KWK collection looks like?
It is a very good question. I remember when I was a fashion student at London College of Fashion, my style of design for each assignment was diverse. even it happened in my graduation collection. However, my tutor wasn’t quite agreed that different styles within a collection. (Which I got it as I wasn’t able to be skilful to put their looks nice together)
When I started the brand KAY KWOK in 2013, Many people around me said a brand’s style should be so consistent, so that to build the customer’s loyalty and there are many other so-called rules and branding things and never do this and do that.
Many rules and constrains that hinder developing potential possibilities. When I rebrand KAY KWOK to KWK by KAY KWOK a year and a half ago. 8 years later of KAY KWOK. I don’t want to listen to the rules anymore.
During these years, I have learnt to listen to myself. I know I am a non-conformist and a lover boy, In terms of design thinking and styles. I love embracing diversity and I embrace it and put it in KWK. So, I blend my value, digital elements like digital fashion and avatars, my personality, imagination and creativity to KWK. Which is totally an evolution of me.
And it was like magical and the whole things just make sense to me.
Since I don’t like norms and rules- my avatars are designed to be diverse in styles, race, sexual preference and background, etc., so it coincidentally provides the bridge to me to design something different each season under KWK aesthetic. And my motivation and passion were burning!
Only when you truly and purely listen to your own voice you start evolving, and you start believing yourself and the power is the biggest. You will feel the different you.
Having explored a post-climate emergency dystopian future with “LALA” what steps do you take to ensure that your brand’s footprint is as sustainable and ethical as it can be?
This is why I love to applied A.I. into the brand. It is not only a fun way or entertaining fashion. But we, through digital fashion, it saves many processes to do the prototypes. We used to do 3 or 4 pieces of garment prototypes. Now, because of A.I, for some garment, it can be minimise to 1 prototype or even no prototype.
Of course, there’s always so much room to improve on sustainable and ethical side!
Beyonce recently wore an amazing art piece that was featured in your Chapter 2 collection. How did that come about, and how exciting and satisfying was it to see one of your designs worn by such a global icon?
One day my PR received an email from the styling director Shiona and her team saying there is a project, but it was so mysterious to us as we need to sign a NDA first before knowing anything in the next email. However, I think the team has seen KWK’s London Fashion Week runway collection and think maybe we could work on something together.
It was, of course, a very exciting opportunity, as Beyonce is definitely one of the artists that we want to work with! However, what I care the most and the most meaningful thing on the whole project is Beyoncé and Shiona’s team valued so much for the creativeness.
As you can see in her costumes, they are not only from the world-class super well-developed brands. Many are from the up-and-coming, creative-focused brands like ours.
The team is brave enough to use unordinary designs like joining hand to push the fashion and art boundaries! How encouraging!
How do want people who wear one of your pieces to feel about themselves and the world around them when they wear KWK by Kay Kwok?
“Live louder and embrace diversity.”
For the people who wear KWK- don’t be afraid of expressing yourself through fashion and style- “Live Louder.”
For the world around them- respect each other’s choices, and this is non of your business of other’s choices toward life and style- “Embrace diversity.”
You returned to London Fashion Week for the first time since 2013 with your A/W 22 collection, which showed at the Truman Brewery, and have returned with your S/S 23 and A/W 23 collections. What was it that motivated you to return to London, and in what ways does the city’s style, culture, and energy inspire you and influence your creative process?
It was purely the bonding that London gave me to come back to London. I went to London at 2010 for studying. That was definitely one of the happiest moments in my life. I still remember the night I went to Alexander McQueen studio for an internship. It was like marking the start of my fashion journey. London has actually influenced every side of me. It has developed my Art sense as I used to go to museums and galleries in London. Which I actually seldom do in Hong Kong.
Fashion design people in London are so experimental, energetic and creative! It is a positive competition living in such an environment! How could you not to become a great fashion designer living in such a dynamic city? Haha
The three shows had very different atmospheres, the Truman Brewery’s futuristic immersive ambience, the opulent splendour of the City of London Banking Hall and the basement vibes of Soho’s Phonica Records. How important to you is it to give those of us who come to your shows a truly distinct and unique experience?
It is very important. As we have a story of an avatar, we want to tell the audience like you each season. Effectively and interesting. Like Chapter 3, we want to create a LALA’s underground experience for all of you through walking from Soho’s Phonica Records and down to a dark-lighting basement. As I think this is so important for the audience to feel the brand. I wish KWK could do to say the best story through show production!
For this latest show, you collaborated with sound producer Darya, whose soundscape was created using the AI generator ChatGPT. As a designer who has embraced new technology in all its forms, what impact do you see AI having on the fashion industry and do you have any concerns?
You know, we always say that A. I would replace the designer in the future.
However, I think there’s still a very long way to go when it comes to replacing humans, and I don’t think the human brain is replaceable, as I always think the human potential is extremely huge.
It is a fact that there are plenty of AI applications that make our everyday lives more convenient and efficient. However, AI, to me, is a tool. it is a double-edged sword like anything. It is going to be bad when we are relying too much on A. I in our daily life.
You interned with Alexander McQueen when studying at the London College of Fashion. What did you learn from that experience, and how has that shaped both your creative and business ethos?
Interning with Alexander McQueen was like a dream came true. Alexander McQueen and John Galliano were my favourite designers when I studied fashion. Theatrical, forward thinking and expressive approach has been embedded into my blood. They made me too believe that a fashion designer’s responsibility is to push the boundary of fashion. And I love it.
Congratulations also on the brand reaching its 10th anniversary. What do you think is the key to your longevity in an industry where many designers struggle to survive beyond a few seasons?
Thank you! It seems to be cliche to say that only passion, flexibility and resilience can make you survive through hard times. And sometimes, we need luck on life too.
However, when luck was not with me. I always encourage myself not to stop and to think positively. I remember when there’s pandemic, when everyone stop working. I had my seven times quarantine in a year, only for the work in Shanghai and Hong Kong. Basically, I spent more than 3 months only for quarantine. That was also a lesson for me to train my persistence and resilience. Nothing can stop me if I don’t want it to stop. I will try my best to protect it.
As we reach the middle of the year, what are your goals and aspirations for the remainder of 2023?
I am happy, grateful and satisfied with what Universe has given me. What I can return to the Universe is to live happily and to do what I love. KWK is a big part of my life, I love it, and I will try my best.
But there’s many things that are precious in life, like family members and friends. Other than KWK, I hope that I can spend more time on family members and friends’ relationships which I seldom do last ten years. Time flies, and we are all here to experience. I want a vivid experience.
When he took the decision to rebrand his label KWK by KAY KWOK eighteen months ago the designer did so having come to the realization that he is at heart a non-conformist who embraces diversity, and that he wished the values which lie at the core of his identity to also be central to the brands.
That period of self-reflection has seen a profound shift in the brands creative consciousness, one which has seen Kay meld those values with the new frontiers of AI and digitalization to create a triumvirate of collections which have brought the label to the global fashion forefront.
It’s an evolution which inspired the designer to return to London Fashion Week with his A/W 22 collection. Showing in the post-industrial landscape of East London’s Truman Brewery, it was a wholly immersive visual feast where the garments and sensory spectacle merged seamlessly to create an unforgettable experience. While that show was attended by a small coterie of industry insiders, word spread quickly, and it’s no surprise that his subsequent LFW shows have become an essential fashion week destination for the entire fashion community.
This is a recognition that’s richly deserved and one which Kay accepts with trademark humility. One which has resulted from him aligning his inherent qualities of patience, persistence and resilience with an innate design sensibility to gift us exciting and exceptional work.
Kay Kwok’s life-affirming mantra is “Live louder and embrace diversity”. Those are sentiments that we wholeheartedly applaud, and if you haven’t yet embraced KWK by KAY KWOK, we would urge you to do so now.
Many thanks to Kay for taking the time to give us such a fascinating and insightful interview and to Jenny at KWK by KAY KWOK for all her help in facilitating our interview.
You can connect with the brand here https://kwk.digital/ and on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/kwkbykaykwok/?hl=en