By Cristin Proctor Rooney
Sinéad O’Dwyer’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection at London Fashion Week was a masterclass in body-conscious design, continuing her challenge to traditional notions of fit, form, and inclusivity. Shown at the NEWGEN Presentation Space at 180 The Strand, it marked her final showcase under the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN scheme.
From her East London studio, O’Dwyer has built a brand that prioritises inclusivity, non-conformity, and diverse body types. Her luxury ready-to-wear pieces don’t simply accommodate; they reframe outdated perceptions of fashion’s intended audience and how garments interact with the body. AW25 was no exception. Titled Character Studies, the collection paid homage to the archetypes that have long populated her work – secretaries, submissives, gymnasts, and dancers – brought together in a sleek, deeply considered presentation.
The runway was set around a stark, brightly lit white cube, the signature backdrop for 180 The Strand. A soundscape of deep, resonant Japanese taiko drums interwoven with ethereal harp and chimes mirrored the collection’s central theme: the interplay of power and softness, structure and fluidity. The taiko beats also subtly nodded to O’Dwyer’s ongoing Shibari-inspired influences, a form of Japanese decorative bondage that has become a hallmark of her work.
The first model strode onto the runway in a long black patent leather cape, followed by a series of tailored shirts, silk fabrics paired with leather, and deconstructed dresses, all house staples of uniform dressing fused with elements of erotica and sensuality. Building on the foundations laid by AW24’s Supervisor collection, AW25 further expanded the brand’s vocabulary. Double-breasted blazers were cinched at the stomach with leather bands, mesh boots climbed to the thighs, while bubble skirts, corset-style tops, and denim added to the collection’s depth. Many looks featured oversized metallic suspender clips that clinked with each step; pieces meant to be heard, reinforcing that the O’Dwyer wearer makes an entrance.
The collection evokes a raw, rebellious energy, blending elements of underground club culture and grunge. Gothic undertones also ran through the collection with a palette of oxblood, deep maroons, black, denim, and flashes of scarlet and teal. The influence of O’Dwyer’s Irish heritage was woven throughout. Lace-up details reminiscent of traditional Irish dance ghillies appeared not just on the footwear but garments themselves. A collaboration with Puma introduced athletic elements, bringing a modern twist, while a partnership with Grounds brought a Y2K influence through their reinterpretation of jelly shoes.
O’Dwyer’s relationship with clothing and the body began long before her time at the Royal College of Art. Growing up in Tullamore, Ireland, she became acutely aware of the restrictive nature of garments, particularly school uniforms, which would later influence her approach to design. In a country where control over women’s bodies has long been a political and cultural battleground, O’Dwyer reclaims these constraints and reinterprets them through a modern lens.
Rejecting fashion’s rigid body standards, O’Dwyer’s designs are neither overly concealed nor exposed, instead working with the natural lines of the body, celebrating movement and form. Layering, sheer fabrics, and intricate lace-up detailing reinforce the tension between vulnerability and strength. With inclusivity as a core pillar of her ethos, the designer has consistently challenged the industry’s narrow definitions of luxury, offering garments in sizes ranging from UK 4 to 30. This was evident in the diverse lineup of models, spanning a range of sizes, ethnicities, and abilities, circling the runway. It is clear that this is not an exercise in performative inclusion but a true reflection of her vision.
Unlike many designers, O’Dwyer did not take a final walk around the space at the end of the show, instead peeking out for a quick wave. The message was clear: the focus was not on spectacle but on the clothes themselves. In a collection that balanced precision with disruption, vulnerability with strength, she reaffirmed her place as one of fashion’s most compelling voices.
With her AW25 collection behind her, O’Dwyer now turns to the LVMH Prize semi-finals in Paris, another milestone in her ascent. As one chapter closes, this collection serves as a reflection of where she has come from, finely defining her brand identity as she enters a new era and further solidifying her status as a designer redefining wearable luxury on her own terms.
