The Five Designers Taking Over NYFW
New York Fashion Week is where new names turn into industry buzz, and the Asia Fashion Collection (AFC) has long been a launchpad for rising Asian designers. Now in its 12th annual NYFW showcase, AFC continues to push boundaries, selecting a diverse group of emerging talents to present their FW25 collections on one of the industry’s most-watched runways.
Flanelle was there to witness it firsthand, capturing every stitch, silhouette, and statement piece as these designers made their highly anticipated debuts. This season’s Tokyo preliminary finalists brought an unexpected mix of nostalgia, rebellion, and futurism, proving that the next wave of fashion from Asia is anything but predictable.
From Japan, South Korea, and Taiwan, these five brands earned their spot on the AFC stage after impressing judges in Tokyo’s rigorous selection round. Each collection tells a different story—some deeply personal, others playfully disruptive—but all pushed craftsmanship and creativity to new heights.
Photos by Daniel Mercado
LITTLE BEDROOM by Sora Komatsu (Japan)
The LITTLE BEDROOM collection by Sora Komatsu captures a raw, nostalgic energy that feels both intimate and rebellious. The pieces evoke a distressed, lived-in aesthetic, where deconstruction meets storytelling.
Komatsu’s signature oversized silhouettes, frayed edges, and layered textures create an atmosphere of youthful defiance—reminiscent of a teenager’s private space, where personal expression runs wild. The distressed red-and-black striped sweater, for example, carries a grunge-inspired, almost post-punk attitude, accentuated by fabric tears and embroidered arrows that suggest movement or emotional weight. Paired with washed-out denim, this look embodies the tension between comfort and chaos.
Accessories like gloves, hanging keychains, and ID badges add a subtle DIY, subcultural edge, reinforcing the idea of fashion as a personal diary. LITTLE BEDROOM is more than just clothing; it’s an invitation to step inside Komatsu’s world—one where imperfection and vulnerability are worn proudly.
YOUSUKE HAGA (Japan)
Yousuke Haga, representing Osaka Bunka Fashion College’s Super Design Department, offers a masterful blend of textural fluidity and structured elegance. His FW25 collection brings a subdued yet deeply intentional approach to contemporary tailoring, where classic menswear tropes are softened, distorted, and redefined.
From the oversized, plaid-textured ensembles to the draped knitwear with shimmering embellishments, each look carries an air of quiet confidence. The pieces, while relaxed in silhouette, hold a meticulous attention to fabric movement and proportion, creating an interplay between ease and precision. The monochrome checkered set, with its sheer overlay, adds an unexpected lightness to traditionally heavier menswear patterns, giving it a modern, almost ethereal quality.
One standout piece: a deep blue oversized sweater featuring an abstract, cascading embroidery of metallic sequins paired with flared trousers. Accessories were kept understated yet intentional—delicate chain accents, unbuttoned collars, and subtle embellishments that felt more like personal artifacts than fashion statements. Yousuke Haga’s collection challenges masculinity in fashion, offering a fresh perspective where structure and softness coexist.
BILL BILL by Kouki Sera & Kotaro Kawamura (Japan)
Kouki Sera and Kotaro Kawamura’s label, BILL BILL, transforms the mundane into the surreal, turning bedroom attire into avant-garde fashion. The FW25 collection feels like stepping into a dream, one where softness, structure, and a touch of eerie nostalgia merge into a poetic narrative about sleep, memory, and the subconscious.
The all-white ensembles evoke a sense of weightless detachment, as if the wearers are floating between reality and a dream state. Billowing pajama-style sets, deconstructed suiting, and exaggerated silhouettes all contribute to the ethereal mood. One standout look features a boxy, oversized cream-colored jacket with dramatic padded shoulders, worn over sheer shorts—blurring the lines between the domestic and the theatrical.
Textures and layering play a crucial role: crisp cottons and soft silks contrast with heavier, sculptural pieces that mimic the comforting weight of a duvet. Accessories like pillows clutched tightly to the chest and plush, distorted briefcases reinforce the theme of sleepwalking through a world of fragmented memories.
The disheveled white wigs and slouched tailoring suggest an emotional undertone…perhaps a longing for comfort or an exploration of how personal spaces shape identity.
MEG KIM by Jieun Kim (South Korea)
South Korean designer Jieun Kim, the creative force behind MEG KIM, delivered a collection that balances industrial roughness. The FW25 lineup is built on sleek tailoring, oversized silhouettes, and a deep understanding of movement, creating a wardrobe that feels both grounded and masculine.
Muted tones of black, charcoal, and olive green dominated the collection, reinforcing its utilitarian edge. Wide-leg leather trousers, structured outerwear, and asymmetric layering pieces were complemented by soft draping and delicate detailing. A standout piece—a long, double-layered leather coat paired with an apron-style overlay—embodied the collection’s fusion of function and form.
Accessories played a key role in defining MEG KIM’s urban nomad aesthetic. Keychains, harness-style straps, and unexpected metal embellishments hinted at a techno-futuristic sensibility, while beanies and fur-trimmed scarves softened the looks, adding a tactile contrast.
Another defining element was the play on deconstruction—garments with exposed seams, raw hems, and asymmetric closures gave an unfinished yet refined look, highlighting Kim’s mastery of subtle subversion.
PCES by Yu Chi Lee, Chih Yun Chang & Bruno Hayon Chung (Taiwan)
Taiwanese label PCES, led by Yu Chi Lee, Chih Yun Chang, and Bruno Hayon Chung, presents a textural fusion of tradition and modernity in their FW25 collection. Blending heritage fabrics, deconstructed tailoring, and dystopian layering, their designs offer an introspective take on contemporary dressing.
The collection oscillates between delicate femininity and raw, urban practicality. Billowing lace trims, asymmetric draping, and soft satins contrast against chunky outerwear, structured layers, and exaggerated workwear elements. A standout look features a silk tunic with intricate lacing details, cascading lace panels, and a slouchy, printed shoulder bag—a poetic balance of fragility and resilience.
On the other end of the spectrum, tactical jackets, oversized patchwork flannels, and unconventional quilting techniques introduce a more grounded, utilitarian side to the collection. A standout piece—a padded white vest with abstract cutouts, worn over distressed black denim and paired with a devil-horn knit cap—fuses playfulness with survivalist aesthetics.
With a monochrome palette occasionally punctuated by muted earth tones and layered textures, PCES crafts a post-modern wardrobe that feels both nostalgic and forward-thinking. It’s a reimagining of traditional craftsmanship through an avant-garde lens, where softness meets the structured chaos of contemporary life.
What This Means for Asian Fashion
AFC has consistently been at the forefront of introducing fresh talent to the international stage, and this year’s finalists prove that the future of Asian fashion is expansive, fearless, and deeply personal. While each designer brings their own distinct voice, there’s a shared ethos of experimentation and storytelling that makes their work impossible to ignore.
As these brands step into the global spotlight, they join a growing wave of Asian designers redefining what luxury, streetwear, and couture can look like. And for those of us lucky enough to witness their NYFW debuts, it’s clear: these are the names to watch.
