Day two of London Fashion Week brought Flanelle to the post-industrial Regents Quarter in the heart of King’s Cross to view the latest body of work from Colombian-Chilean designer Jennifer Droguett Espinosa’s brand Anciela.
Drawing on the themes of South American heritage, migration and childhood memories to inform her practice, S/S 27’s collection “Roots” continued that exploration, focusing on the relationship between mother and daughter and the knowledge, memory and traditions passed between generations. Referencing what we can learn from the past, how we respond to present-day challenges and how we can build a more resilient future, these themes manifested themselves in a collection that spoke to the adaptability of its garments. Garments that through the use of adaptive tailoring, featured adjustable panels, detachable sleeves and layers that wrapped, tied and knotted around the body.
As always, Jennifer Droguett Espinosa espouses a staunchly sustainable ethos and this season this was evidenced through the use of vintage silk donated by artist Allegra Hicks, rescued wool suiting obtained from ethical fashion advocate Orsola de Castro, deadstock cottons and certified Tencel. In addition, Jennifer also worked with next-generation materials such as AlgaFila, a fibre made from seaweed extract, air and nanotechnology; and Savigne by Planet of the Grapes, an animal-free, plant-based leather alternative created from pressed grape skins, stalks and seeds left over from winemaking. This environmental empathy was aligned with a cultural consciousness which saw the show accompanied by a performance from London-based Venezuelan artist Luzmira Serpa, which perfectly complemented “Roots” message and values.
Flanelle spoke to Jennifer about the ethical intentionality which underpins all that she does, the influences that inspired this latest collection and her future aspirations.
Words by Brian James
Why “Roots” and what message do you want this highly evocative title to convey?
I think generally to reconnect with our own roots, to reconnect with Mother Earth. We started with the connection with the Mother , but obviously we are all sons and daughters of the Earth and I feel we are losing that connection and fashion is such a multidisciplinary platform to play around with concepts that are difficult and this is the way to express it , we all have some difficult times and relationships are difficult and I think that nowadays , more than ever , we need to make a statement for the future. That means testing the materials, testing the concepts and understanding the challenges but also trying to tackle them, not just for this generation but for future generations. It can be the start of something and maybe we can take it further?
What role do your Columbian and Chilean roots play in your creative process?
They’re fundamental , it’s in the name of the brand. Anciela is a made up name from my grandparents and the objective is to engage with culture , and also celebrate the diaspora , the Latinos that we have here. The nostalgic concept of culture: we are all immigrants. For me, fashion is what I choose to do and how I express myself.
How do these themes manifest themselves in the pieces we saw on the runway ?
It’s very literal: the knitwear is all made from alga yarns in merino wool so this is one of the innovations and the brown alga is widely available everywhere, it’s a technology that feels and has the same properties as wool but it has considerably less impact on the planet, that’s one of the challenges we need to tackle. They capture the carbon and look and feel amazing. The suiting also has alga yarns so I’m testing this technology. The innovations are central to everything we do and the casting is also essential to convey the message and the feeling of what I’ve made.
I understand that people donated some of the materials you used in this collection, can you talk us through how that came about ?
I had to use everything that I could find and that I could rescue. My dear mentor and friend, Orsola de Castro, donated some of the suiting from when she had a brand in the 1990’s. She had no use for them anymore so I’m using them. The artist Allegra Hicks, also donated to me as well and that’s precious to me. I’m reusing what’s already there and I’m like a chef. I source the material and come up with a dish, and let’s see what happens.
Going back to the beginning, you started the brand in 2019 so what was the catalyst for founding Anciela?
I think it was just the lack of visibility, back then there was very little about diversity and even though I had worked in fashion for a couple of years for beautiful brands that I adored from couture to independent brands here in London , I just wanted to be at my own creative level. Obviously now, we all know what diversity means and I’m happy to see it changing and I’m happy to be at the beginning of this, to be pioneering. It’s like Bad Bunny at the Super Bowl, I feel there is this celebration of diversity, I love it, and I think we’re getting there.
How do you want the person who wears Anciela to feel about themselves and the world around them when they’re wearing Anciela?
I think that every garment has a very personal relationship with the wearer and it’s very unique and intimate. The more we love a piece we will keep it forever which makes it an heirloom and something that has longevity and something that we won’t throw away which helps to stop the waste problem.
Who are the designers and role models who have inspired you?
So many who paved the way for me, people like Issey Miyake, they all paved the way for me, to do it now as a woman of colour, to have people here in a great space to have great fun but also to educate and explore different cultures. I admire all those who came before me who have proven timeless and if I can have a little bit of that then I’ll be very happy.
What are your goals and aspirations for the remainder of 2026?
I think just to keep exploring in different creative spaces, to test new formats with our audience, to engage with them. To hopefully educate them in the concepts of sustainability. I think we need everyone, not just the customers and consumers, but the audience who have the power to change things. That’s the most exciting thing for me.
“Roots” is a collection where tactility and texture meet innovation and inspiration. Resourcefully reusing donated deadstock and utilising next-generation materials, designer Jennifer Droguett Espinosa and her brand Anciela continue to shine a spotlight on sustainability and invite candid conversations about what can be achieved in the sphere of fashion when there’s a will and commitment to put the planet before profit.
Rooted in community, culture and caring for our fragile world, the designer’s latest work shows a practice which continues to evolve while remaining true to the vision and values that have shaped the brand since its inception in 2019.
