by Brian James and Leigh Maynard – At London Fashion Week 2022
The stratospheric rise of designer Javier Aparici’s Sohuman label has been one of the fashion success stories of the 2020s. Founded three short years ago, Sohuman has become a go-to brand for a panoply of celebrities, including Beyonce, Kate Moss and Rita Ora. It’s a meteoric rise which has also seen it become available to wider audiences through global curated marketplace Wolf and Badger.
The fact that this has all been achieved during the COVID crisis is a testament to Javier Aparici’s business acumen as well as his creative genius. With a corporate fiscal background, Aparici is achingly aware that the fashion “industry” is just that, and this background has given him an understanding of the financial realities which underpin the success of any brand.
That sense of realism is espoused in the Sohuman holy trinity brand identity of radical transparency, ethical factories and exceptional quality. It’s an ethical intentionality which extends throughout the entirety of the supply chain, from the sustainably sourced fabrics to a commitment to safe working conditions and a fair rate of pay for the artisans who make the clothes.
London Fashion Week saw Sohuman showcase their stunning SS23 collection at the London College of Contemporary Arts. Flanelle were there, and we sat down with Javier to ask him about his influences and aspirations; and the divine designs and gold standard craftsmanship which have brought the brand an ever-increasing army of devoted followers.
Previously, you worked in financial corporations; where did your fascination with the fashion world originate?
Since I was young, my passion has always been fashion; however, I started my university stage with the economic crisis of 2011. At that time, you could only study what would give you a secure job, so I decided to study Business, Law and CFA II; however, since I was little, I have known that my passion was fashion. Working in the financial sector helped me save and learn how to manage my company.
Sohuman’s three core values are Radical Transparency, Ethical Factories and Exceptional Quality. How do you define radical transparency, what prompted you to create your company with these core values, and what are the ways you uphold them?
I believe that it is essential that the client knows the complete DNA of all the garments, that he knows from the moment a design is made on paper until he has it at home, what are all the parts of this process that are involved, how they are involved and why. In this way, in a globalized world with so much information at our fingertips from www.sohumanbrand.com, it is the least we can do for our clients.
You make sure to produce your clothing and accessories in ethical factories; What materials does Sohuman use, and how does Sohuman ensure that they are sourced ethically throughout the supply chain?
It is essential to choose your suppliers well; they are 50% of the business; that is why the most complicated process when you start a business is to select the factories with which you are going to work well, that they do it ethically, with quality and guaranteeing good working conditions for its employees.
You started by creating t-shirts with feminist slogans. What are your main inspirations, and tell us about your process?
Designers are at the service of women, and that is why from the beginning, we have worked for real equality between men and women; since then progress has been made, but there is still a long way to go to reach equality.
What would you say is the key to the success of a fashion brand in terms of viability and maintaining its sustainable spirit?
Three things are essential: Be true to your values Never forget your origins and self-finance.
What do you think about the process of creating timeless collections to ensure that we consume at a slower and more environmentally friendly pace?
It has always existed, although in another way and with other names. The basic garments of the past are now timeless collections. It is essential to be able to give the customer classic garments that never go out of style, and that also have quality and manufacturing processes that which make it last over time.
What have been your main challenges and successes recently, and how have they informed your processes going forward?
The fact of being less than three years old and opening the official calendar of London Fashion Week is a success and a challenge; having clients who trust you like Miranda Kerr or Kate Moss is an honour and having been able to overcome the pandemic that so the damage it has done to the fashion sector is quite an achievement, the most important thing is to continue working day by day and do things better.
You are a relatively young brand; How does it feel to be exhibiting your work again as part of the scheduled London Fashion Week shows, and what are you looking forward to this season?
As I indicated before, it is an honour, we always try to improve ourselves parade after parade, do things better, have more media coverage and above all, make the collection more exciting; seeing people in the front row excited with your designs is everything my pleasure.
High-profile artists like Beyonce and Rita Ora love your designs. Is there anyone, in particular, you would like to dress in the future?
Mainly I like to dress those clients who come for our designs and stay for our values; for me that is an honour and it is what really makes your company and your life have meaning.
How do you want people to feel when they wear Sohuman?
Powerful, relaxed and confident that they have the best look.
You have won several awards as a leading company in the fashion sustainability sector; Which award are you most proud of and why?
The prizes are something that are neither requested nor rejected; they are a recognition of your career, your effort and, above all, the necessary oxygen to know that you are doing things well and that you have to keep fighting.
You have said in the past that women will lead the change towards a society with different forms of consumption. Can you elaborate on that comment and why you think this is the case?
Women are taking the reins of our era, and although there is still a long way to go, it is essential that this be the case; they have proposed new forms of consumption that are more sustainable and different with second-hand or longer-term garments.
What are your hopes for the brand moving forward?
Everyday work, be persevering, trust in yourself and know that if you do these things, the project will continue to progress without pause but without haste.
As Xavier tells us, being true to your values, never forgetting your origins and ensuring that the business element of the brand is on a sound financial footing have been key to the rise of Sohuman. It’s a triumvirate of values which aligned with the designer’s gift for effortlessly elegant design and has seen the exponential growth of Sohuman during a period that for so many other brands, were a deeply troubling time. It’s an unassailable ascendancy which we can all be a part of. In fact, we’d go as far as to say that all humans should have some Sohuman in their lives.
Huge thanks to Javier for giving us so much of his time and for giving us such a fascinating insight into both his and the Sohuman story. You can find his designs at www.sohumanbrand.com