By Leigh Maynard
Flanelle steps into the quiet luxury of West Sussex in the South Downs National Park in England, to experience a country stay that is both a perfect retreat for the winter months and the best base for outdoor pursuits as winter turns to spring.
It is a dark winter’s evening as we pull into the driveway of The Woodcote. A light fog hangs in the air, softening the gentle glow of fairy lights draped across the doorway of this beautifully restored restaurant with rooms, where we will be staying for the night. Once an old stud farm, The Woodcote has been thoughtfully reimagined by husband-and-wife team Glen and Asta Manchester, alongside former Gordon Ramsay Restaurants and Midsummer House chef Matt Gillan, into a destination restaurant with six exquisitely curated rooms.
Set among sweeping green fields and trees still holding the last dry, crackling leaves of autumn, this inviting home-from-home is decorated in muted greys, soft creams and warm browns, with a seasonal green wreath framing the front door. The space immediately exudes warmth, the soft glow from the windows offering a subtle hint of what lies within.
Located within acres of gently rolling hills in the South Downs National Park, in the village of Graffam, West Sussex, this is no ordinary pocket of countryside. On our journey to The Woodcote, Duncan, our driver, tells us we are in good company: nearby residents include music royalty such as Pink Floyd’s David Gilmour, Keith Richards, and Roger Taylor. Clearly, if you are seeking the quintessential English countryside (or the chance to bump into music legends), this appears to be the place.
The Woodcote is just half an hour from the historic city of Chichester, home to its renowned theatre, and close to Petworth House. Goodwood, famous for its festivals, lies only 11 miles away, while Arundel Castle and the coast, with its expansive beaches, are just a 40-minute drive. There is plenty to explore, should you wish to venture out. Perhaps most surprising is that Sussex is home to more than 140 vineyards. The Woodcote team can arrange guided tours and tastings of excellent local wines grown on the region’s south-facing slopes, benefiting from ideal light and climate. And many of these bottles, of course, feature prominently on the restaurant’s wine list.
Even before stepping inside, it’s the attention to detail that hints at the care taken in restoring this country estate, a place designed to slow down and enjoy exemplary hospitality.
As our car door opens, we are warmly welcomed by Will on the driveway. Affable and attentive, he greets us by name and ensures we are well taken care of from the outset. With our bags sent to our rooms, we step into the bar, a warm, inviting space dressed for the lead-up to Christmas. Sumptuous pine, delicate glass baubles, and seasonal foliage fill the room, with floral arrangements by renowned designer Jane Wadham (Annabel’s, Harry’s). Softly patterned cushions and classic and contemporary artwork sit against blue-grey panelling, while a crackling fire and the scent of Diptyque candles complete the atmosphere. Everything signals quiet, considered quality hospitality.
By candlelight, we are invited to sit at the bar on stools upholstered in soft olive velvet, where Will and Ben, smartly dressed in earthy tweed jackets, take the helm. A welcome glass of Sugrue South Downs The Trouble with Dreams 2020 (60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir) is poured. The fine bubbles open the palate, while the Pinot Noir lends a gentle fruitiness and a soft, moreish finish. It’s an excellent opening note to the night.
Ben’s service is perfectly judged: attentive without intrusion. Soon, our welcome canapés arrive. Seaweed taco with hummus, quince purée, and spiced chickpeas; haddock tartlet cured in yuzu emulsion with samphire; and onion gougère with tomato jam and Parmesan. Each is full of flavour, though the taco stands out as an explosion of sweet, earthy, and spicy notes.
We accompany these with a Selham Spicy Thomas, a playful twist on a margarita that replaces Cointreau with Espelette liqueur, delivering a distinctive capsicum note. Finished with a chilli-lime rim and a house-made Scotch bonnet tincture, vacuum-infused to release its oils, the cocktail is impeccably balanced, utterly delicious and just one of a perfectly curated drinks menu.
Afterwards, we head to our rooms to settle in. The six accommodations sit quietly behind the main building, around a peaceful courtyard, each with a pebbled stone exterior and a distinctive blue door, each named. Ours, Furze and Fitzlea, like all the rooms, have individual personalities and are calming yet beautifully curated by renowned Sussex-based interior designer Anna Hewitson.
Furze is decorated in soft greens and blues with mustard accents, botanical prints, wood panelling, and carefully chosen antique lamps and furnishings, creating a sumptuous yet tranquil atmosphere. Fitzlea, by contrast, is decorated in cool navy blues and neutral tones. Both rooms feature the ultimate cosy king beds with soft feather pillows in Oxford cases and beautiful bolster cushions. The bathrooms, finished with antique gold fittings against soft blue-grey hues, are impeccably appointed.
Will gives us a thorough tour of our rooms. Every detail has been considered: Nespresso machines and Brew Tea Company selections, freshly baked cookies, Wi-Fi and Sky TV with streaming services, plush bathrobes and slippers, vanity kits, Wildsmith toiletries, backlit mirrors, Dyson hairdryers, and the cutest leather Roberts radio softly playing jazz. The minibar is generously stocked with water and lightly carbonated drinks such as Stor Valley Apple and Elderflower. The ultimate addition: both rooms also feature private terraces with blankets and cushioned seating, perfect for taking in the sweeping South Downs views.
Then, to dinner, and what a dinner. Head Chef Matt Gillan leads a talented team, delivering a menu that reflects the surrounding landscape and his deep commitment to local produce, fostered through close relationships with nearby gamekeepers, fisheries, and foragers.
We begin with an amuse-bouche of cauliflower velouté, pickled beetroot, puffed wild rice, and nasturtium oil made from flowers grown in The Woodcote Garden. The contrast of silky velouté and crisp wild rice sets the tone beautifully, accompanied by warm sourdough and salted South Downs butter.
We opt for wine pairings with our meal, and Will expertly guides us. Our starters include goat’s cheese agnolotti with red pepper fondue and yeast foam, paired with Pieropan La Rocca Soave Classico 2021, and partridge ballotine with partridge leg, roasted quince, and quince purée, matched with Domaine du Tunnel Saint-Péray Roussanne 2023.
For mains, the baked and braised celeriac with roasted onion and onion purée proves a deeply flavourful vegetarian option, paired with Terraremota Ales Garnacha Rosé 2023. The South Downs venison loin, leg, and shoulder, served with venison sausage, treacle-glazed parsnip, and parsnip purée, is outstanding. The puree is velvet-soft and deliciously sweet, paired with Artadi La Hoya Tempranillo 2021.
Sides of Pink Fir potatoes and sesame tender stem broccoli complete the meal perfectly.
And then to dessert. So many choices, but we decide upon the blackberry mousse with sticky toffee pudding, pumpkin seed ice cream, and beetroot mousse. As dessert should be, it is indulgent yet balanced. The cheese selection, Barkham Blue, Wigmore, Godminster Cheddar (our favourite), and Dazel Ash, is served with poppy seed, honey and polenta, and onion seed crackers and the final dish, apple turnover, and black grape jam. We are full but satisfied and decide to end the meal with one last shared glass of Domaine La Tour Vieilles Banyuls Réserve 2018 before tea.
We both agree that this is one of the best dinners we’ve experienced in a long time, crafted for those who genuinely appreciate thoughtful, refined cooking that is just as much a feast for the eyes as the palate.
The following morning, Janie welcomes us for breakfast with the same warmth and care as our hosts from the night before. Options include freshly baked pastries, toast with honey gathered on-site from local hives and the thickest-cut marmalade, avocado toast with eggs, or a full English. We choose the latter, alongside creamy porridge with berries. As with dinner, the portions are generous, and the food is flavourful and beautifully prepared.
As our stay draws to a close, we stroll the gardens, past the vegetable patch and beehives, and into the quiet village beyond. It’s a fittingly gentle end to the most relaxing of stays. And for those wishing to experience other outdoor activities, from walking the Serpent Trail to resting at The Woodcote while hiking the South Downs Way, there is plenty to do. The team is on hand to guide you and can also arrange golf or horse riding nearby.
For those wishing to stay closer to ‘home’, in the garden, guests can relax with a book or listen to the calming sounds of local wildlife. In both summer and winter, Janie’s cutest of cute horsebox café, situated in the front garden, serves hot drinks, cocktails, and dishes from the kitchen, with a firepit on the terrace during colder months, along with our host’s warm welcome, ensuring al fresco dining is always inviting.
There is a quiet elegance to The Woodcote that will appeal to those who value luxury, authenticity, and exceptional attention to detail. The surrounding countryside and ideally situated rooms make for a wonderful, tranquil escape. That is not to say that this is not a stay of the utmost quality; it is an exemplary one, precisely because everything feels considered, calm, and sincere. The team’s passion is palpable, and their warmth makes you feel instantly at home. While they say there’s nowhere quite like home, this is a home-from-home we were reluctant to leave. We arrived excited and departed nostalgic and reflective, already counting the days until we can return to the same unforgettable welcome from a team who are a credit to this most wonderful of country retreats. They say it’s the quiet ones that you need to pay attention to, and The Woodcote is a case in point.
For more information and bookings, visit www.thewoodcote.com
Address: The Woodcote, Graffham, West Sussex, GU28 0NT
Midweek escapes for two, including a welcome drink, dinner, bed and breakfast. It’s the same Woodcote experience, but with exceptional savings of over £100. Wednesday and Thursday nights, £295 per night for two.
