This February’s New York Fashion Week showcased colorful, edgy yet sophisticated creations of leading and emerging, international and New York-based labels.
Son Jung Wan FW23
Korean label Son Jung Wan’s showed her latest collection at New York Fashion Week’s main venue, Spring Studios. The designer featured a wide range of dresses and suits in lilac, apricot, galactic cobalt, and white/black shades. The event was attended by celebrities such as Brook Shields with her daughter Grier Hammond Genchy.
Photo credit: Rodin Banica
Chiara Boni La Petite Robe FW23
Milan-based Chiara Boni La Petite Robe approached the Fall/Winter 2023 season with a very precise attitude: unfussy and quintessentially elegant. Inspired by Helmut Newton’s sharp and seductive images, the collection focused on impeccable silhouettes and a concise color palette mainly centered on black, lit up by winter white, azalea touches and some metallic sparkle.Top model Coco Rocha walked the runway in a signature black blouse and midi length black skirt.
Photo Credit: Darian DiCianno
CHOCHENG FW23
For Autumn Winter 2023, New York-based CHOCHENG drew inspiration from the Italian masterpiece 8 ½ by iconic filmmaker Federico Fellini. The brand introduced new designs along with updating and repurposing signature concepts from the beginning of the brand. Natural and sustainable cotton velvet, boucle, crepe and Swarovski crystal beadings remained the brand staples, while the new invention of vegan cupro charmeuse replaced silk fabrics.
We met and interviewed owner Cho Cho Cheng before the show at Spring Studios.
You initially studied fashion and costume design at Parsons School of Design. Did you always know that you wanted to be a fashion designer, and was there a particular person or designer that inspired you on your journey?
My grandmother was a couturier and had been a great inspiration, so was madam Hanae Mori, the late grand couturier, whom I’ve interned for. I grew up with people from the fashion industry and I had always known that I’ll be a fashion or costume designer.
How does your experience working at Saville Row and studying traditional tailoring contributes to the construction of your pieces?
Traditional Saville Row tailoring technique applies to menswear, I have adopted and adapted it to womenswear. I use those technique even in my ready to wear production, which can only be done by hand at my own workshop. It is very labor intensive and expensive, so I operate on a vertically integrated business model and sell directly to consumers.
Congratulations on your FW23 collection, the show was spectacular, tell us a bit more about the inspiration behind the latest collection?
The main source of inspiration for this collection is the movie 8 ½ by Fellini, which I believe is a movie about recollecting your past to recreate new ideas for the future.
What is your favorite piece from the collection, and why and tell us how you’d like a woman to feel when they wear an item from your brand?
My favorite piece is the grey velvet cap sleeve bolero jacket with hand sewn petals outlining an intricate cutout design. It is one of my most seductive creation.
You opened your flagship store on prestigious 5th Avenue in 2019. How do you think retail changed since the pandemic?
My landlord invited me to open my flagship store on 5th Avenue making me the first Asian designer label to open on 5th Avenue. It is a historical milestone and it holds great sentimental values. We have also launched ecommerce recently. Our flagship store offers personal and customized services to a clientele who appreciates craftsmanship. We’ll soon be offering traditional couture services at the flagship store, while ecommerce will focus on classic ready to wear items such as knitwear and accessories.
Photo Credit : CHOCHENG