Text By Leigh Maynard
Photos by Chris Yates
Each season there are many variations on the traditional catwalk; designers find ever more elaborate ways to showcase collections creating whole worlds rather than simple runways. And it is perhaps the first time one has begun with a model screaming. But that is precisely how Buerlangma AW23 launched onto the catwalk with their collection entitled ‘Do it like a Villain’. The scream, a klaxon exclaimed, ‘Change is coming’ whilst their theme explored not only the literal interpretation of the villain portrayed in film, TV, Plays and legends but also served as a representation of China’s cultural and societal fluctuation, where the youth are challenging convention and embracing their individuality and creativity.
Amidst massive socio-economic changes and the transitional landscape of digitisation, the new generation faces a seismic shift. Part of China’s largest rural-to-urban migration and opportunities to discover new cultures through international education, they are expanding their perspectives, breaking free of traditional conventions, and experimenting with perceptions of self and ways to depict their changing views and attitudes.
For China’s young blood, neologisms, or slang terms like ‘Ku’ and ‘wenyi qingnian’ have come to symbolise the value of individualism, representing strong, silent bookish heroes or flamboyantly dressed characters. The changing economy and attitudes to the prominence of ‘oneness’ over family have all contributed to this idea. At the same time, popular culture and digitisation have opened millennials’ eyes, with seminal films like Zhang Yuan’s East Palace West Palace and Lou Ye’s Suzhou River helping shape perspectives and the sense of individual spirit. Today’s youth have many more options than their parents, with the chance to chase their ambitions and express their original voices reflected in their choice of wardrobe, careers and pursuits.
Buerlangma’s collection celebrates this sentiment by featuring a range of masks that symbolise these unique expressions in roles and personalities and the diverse world now inhabited by younger Chinese society. Founded in 2020 by designer QiQi Yuan and supermodel BoChao Yuan, amidst the uncertainty of the pandemic, the simple patterns and meticulous techniques created in signature materials like cotton, silk, taffeta, satin and PU leather decorated with 3D printed wearable ‘devices’, place further emphasis on the brand’s innovative approach to design and creativity. Garments feature curved spikes and horns ready to defend Buerlangma’s stance, while paint-splattered dresses are embellished with bold swathes of red tulle and bright yellow fringing. Signature looks include a long silver dress featuring bold sculptural shoulders, whilst graffitied toile makes light of dresses that never made it to the catwalk due to logistical challenges. Despite such setbacks and its relatively short tenure in the fashion space, Buerlangma has already garnered massive recognition from international magazines and celebrities and received a Fashion Scout Merit in January 2023. The brand’s smoke-filled theatrical show, completed by the monumental fountain at the centre, further cemented their presence.
Buerlangma is one of several emerging Chinese brands taking to Europe and exemplifying the burgeoning new wave of talent who seek to rewrite the negative connotations as ‘Europe’s manufacturers.’ Instead, this breed has emerged from the generations of knowledge gained in production for such labels. It is utilising and channelling those foundations in business and craftsmanship through the help of incubators such as Labelhood that nurture brands and create opportunities for further exposure through events like Shanghai Fashion Week and Pitti Uomo, offering young Chinese designers more chances to enter international markets.
Amidst the changing face of Chinese youth culture, “Do it Like a Villain” creates a conversation, sets a path for other young designers, and advocates for those who question traditional protocols. The brand and collection symbolise a generation ready to seek new narratives while respectfully adhering to entrenched cultural codes. Buerlangma’s designs equip them with a wardrobe and armour to challenge existing ideas and embrace new norms. Akin to the collection’s protagonist, who can often appear simultaneously beautiful and dangerous, Buerlangma, with its stunning collection, made an impactful debut at London Fashion Week and is determined to establish itself as a leading voice in fashion. The brand sets new standards for its youth. It encourages all who wear it to embrace their authenticity, despite the often-restrictive perceptions of others who may also regard change and individuality as villainous but who will hopefully, with time, come to see these brave new voices, on the precipice of this brave new world, as heroes too.
